A trip to the tiny village of Piódão (pee-oh-downg) takes you deep into the Serra de Açor (Goshawk Mountains), a remote range of vertiginous ridges, deeply cut valleys, rivers and virgin woodland. There, set among steeply terraced slopes, the village sits in glorious isolation, its grey schist houses clinging to the verdant hills.
Until the 1970s the only way to reach Piódão was on horseback or by foot. Nowadays, visitors drive in, and the village has become something of a tourist attraction. It remains a wonderfully atmospheric spot, though. As you wander its tiny lanes note the many doorways with crosses over them – these were said to offer protection against curses and thunderstorms.