The pretty village of Xagħra (shaa-ra), one of Gozo's largest, spreads across the flat summit of the hill east of Victoria. The 19th-century Church of Our Lady of Victory looks down benignly on the tree-lined Pjazza Vittorja, where old men sit and chat in the shade of the oleanders – there's always something gossip-worthy going on in the village square. Other attractions include two incongruous caverns concealed under locals' houses, and another nearby cave offering excellent ocean views.
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