Must-see restaurants in Central Rīga

Like every other country north of Antarctica, Latvia has TV chefs. Here, the beloved Mārtiņš Sirmais runs an idiosyncratic restaurant that's part…

Rīga’s hipster students head here to sip espresso and blog about Nietzsche amid comfy couches and blond-wood minimalism. Weekday breakfast (8am to 11.30am…

US expats aching for lox or a bacon-egg-and-cheese bagel can get a fix at this real-deal joint. Fresh bagels come with cream cheese or as a sandwich with…

This toney restaurant has served royalty and rock stars (Japanese emperor Akihito, Prince Charles, Elton John) amid its eye-catching van Gogh–inspired…

Mismatched tables perch unsteadily on a sidewalk cracked by a lovely old shade tree at this very popular kebab shop. From the pitas to the piquant grilled…

Rīgans of all stripes stop by this bustling cafeteria, just a few metres from the ticket windows in the mall at the Central Train Station. Lido's…

Despite Rīga’s mercurial cafe culture, Osīriss is a legendary stalwart. The green faux-marble tabletops haven’t changed since the mid-1990s and neither…

Creative Latvian gastronomy is showcased in this Vērmanes Park favourite. Expect the likes of home-smoked sturgeon, glazed ox cheeks with blackberries and…

Sample some great cuisine from the Caucasus, which proves that life gets spicier when you go south. Start with an appetiser of pickled vegetables – the…

Step down a few steps – just metres from St Gertrude Church – to some of the freshest fare in Rīga. Local and seasonal produce dictates what's on offer,…

Although right in the centre, this place feels like you've discovered a warm tavern in the middle of nowhere. Complete with a tiled stove, this wooden…

Part of a sleek row of waterside bistros overlooking the Passenger Ferry Terminal and the Daugava River in the Andrejosta neighbourhood, Koya has a large…

From fish and chips to towering seafood platters, every day the line-up changes depending on what sails in on the fishing fleet. This contemporary cafe…

Savour the cultured Ģertrūdes iela street life on the large shaded terrace at this hip, Italian-style cafe. Have some bruschetta with a glass of wine from…

This slightly upscale supermarket has an excellent deli section: the perfect complement for your foraging foray at the Rīga Central Market, whether it's…

Latvia’s trendier version of Prêt a Manger is a step up from ready-made sandwiches at the grocery store. Black-and-yellow stencil art rocks the walls and…

If you’re up to your elbows in pork tongue, Charlestons is a sure bet to get rid of the meat sweats. Lounge around the terraced courtyard in the heart of…

We'd call this tiny place sweet even if it didn't make these light fruity cupcakes and meringues – just for its looks. You might be able to occupy one of…

Supermarket within the Barona Centrs shopping mall.