Must-see restaurants in Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

  • Kozue

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    It's hard to beat Kozue's combination of exquisite seasonal Japanese cuisine, artisan crockery and distractingly good views over Shinjuku. As the kimono…

  • Mensho

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    The Mensho chain is known for its innovative ramen recipes and the clean, contemporary design of its shops. At this branch the concept is farm to bowl…

  • Kanae

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Kanae is a perfect example of one of Shinjuku-sanchōme's excellent and all but undiscoverable izakaya: delicious sashimi, seasonal dishes, simple staples …

  • Donjaca

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Donjaca, in business since 1979, has many telltale signs of a classic Shōwa-era (1926–89) izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery): red vinyl stools, lantern…

  • Berg

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Wedged inside the fashion-forward Lumine Est department store (itself inside the frenetic Shinjuku Station), Berg stands still. The cramped, cult-status…

  • Omoide-yokochō

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Literally ‘Memory Lane’ (and less politely known as Shonben-yokochō, or ‘Piss Alley’), Omoide-yokochō started as a postwar black market and somehow…

  • Ohitotsuzen Tanbo

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    The speciality here is the least glamorous part of the meal – the rice, which comes from an organic farm the restaurant manages in Niigata Prefecture. It…

  • Mucha-an

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Mucha-an is in an old wooden ryokan transported from across town to the gardens at Chinzan-sō. The soba (buckwheat noodles) are made in-house: go for…

  • Gochisō Tonjiru

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Tonjiru, a home-cooking classic, is a hearty miso soup packed with root veggies (such as burdock root, daikon/radish, potato and carrot) and chunks of…

  • Nagi

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Nagi, once an edgy upstart in the ramen world, now has branches around the city. This tiny shop is one of the originals, located up a treacherous stairway…

  • Nakajima

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    In the evening, Nakajima serves exquisite kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) dinners. On weekdays, it also serves a set lunch of humble iwashi (sardines)…

  • Yong Xiang Sheng Jian Guan

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    This tiny shop in Ikebukuro's Chinatown deals in Shanghai street food, namely shēngjiān (pan-fried pork buns; called yaki-shōronpo in Japan). Warning:…

  • Takashimaya Restaurant Park

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Of all the department-store food courts in Shinjuku, Takashimaya has the best selection, with three floors of restaurants. Many of the options here are…

  • Tsunahachi

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Tsunahachi has been frying prawns and veggies for more than 90 years and is an easy place to be initiated in the art of tempura. Come at lunch for the…

  • Tori no Ana

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Tori paitan (鶏白湯) is a style of ramen made with a chicken stock so collagen-rich as to be creamy and it's very popular in Tokyo at the moment. This…

  • Sakura Cafe & Restaurant

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    With terrace seating, fairy lights, a global array of comfort food (from fried calamari sandwiches to gapao rice) and beer, Sakura Cafe & Restaurant nails…

  • Shin-chan

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    In Shin-Ōkubo's Koreatown, Shin-chan specialises in spicy Korean-style fried chicken, sold by the half (from ¥1400) or whole (¥2485) bird. There's a…

  • Numazukō

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    This is one of Tokyo's better kaiten-sushi (conveyor-belt sushi restaurants), with fish sourced daily from the fish market in Numazu (south of Tokyo on…

  • Ruby

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Ruby is among a handful of restaurants and shops that make up Takadanobaba's 'Little Yangon', serving up Burmese classics like mohinga (rice-noodle soup)…

  • Lumine

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    This department store attached to Shinjuku Station is a good bet when you're in need of a quick bite and don't want to brave the streets outside…

  • Shinjuku Asia-yokochō

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    A rooftop night market that spans the Asian continent, Asia-yokochō has vendors dishing out everything from Korean bibimbap to Vietnamese pho. It's noisy,…

  • Mylord

    Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo

    Above Odakyū Shinjuku Station (right outside the south exit ticket gates), this youth-oriented department store has a bunch of budget-friendly restaurants…