The village of Solda (Sulden; 1906m), reached by winding your way up the deep, dark valley of the same name, is surrounded by 14 peaks over 3000m high. This low-key ski resort becomes a busy base for walkers and climbers in summer. Located – literally – inside a hill, the Messner Mountain Museum Ortles articulates the theme of 'eternal ice'. Messner's Yak & Yeti restaurant, in a 17th-century farmhouse, is at the entrance.
The narrow Val d'Ultimo is home to a string of picturesque traditional villages where you can partake in winter or summer sports (including great fishing) or just soak up the beauty and silence. The Schwienbacher's Eggwirt has gorgeously designed contemporary rooms with dreamlike valley views, a free sauna and a wonderful historic stuben dining room.