The first thing you notice about Val di Non is the apple trees – their gnarly, trellised branches stretch for miles, and in spring their fragrant blossoms scent the air. Craggy castles dot the surrounding rises, including the stunning Castel Thun. The valley is centred on Cles, whose tourist office is just off the main road through town.
Italy's apple giant, Melinda, is a valley girl. A couple of villages on from Cles, near Mollaro, Melinda Mondo conducts tours of the orchards and processing plants and has a cheery shop selling apples and all sorts of apple-related products. Look out also for the big cheese next door, the home of Trentingrana, Trentino's sweet, subtle 'Parmesan-style' Grana.