Welcome to Pegunungan Arfak
The best-known birdwatching base is Mokwam, a collection of small villages a few kilometres down a side road about 50km from Manokwari, before Minyambou. There’s accommodation for tourists in two of the villages, Syobri and Kwau.
In Syobri ask for Zeth Wonggor, a highly experienced guide who has worked here with, among others, Sir David Attenborough. He has forest hides for viewing the magnificent bird of paradise, Western parotia and Arfak astrapia (also birds of paradise), the Vogelkop bowerbird and other exotic feathery species. February and March are best for observing spectacular, iridescent birdwing butterflies with wingspans of up to 25cm. Zeth has tourist accommodation (per person 100,000Rp) in a well-built wooden house. He charges 500,000Rp per day for guiding.
In Kwau village Hans Mandacan runs a similar kind of show. The very comfortable guesthouse (100,000Rp) here is surrounded by flowers and is only a five-minute walk from the nearest bird hides. Hans charges 175,000/350,000Rp per half-day/day for guiding.
You can get a 4WD double-cabin pickup to Mokwam (150,000Rp, 1½ hours) from around 7am, 100m along the street past Manokwari’s Terminal Wosi. Talk to drivers the day before, or get to the stop in good time, if you don’t want to end up chartering a whole vehicle for 1,200,000Rp (one way).