Top ChoiceRestaurants in Ende
Sari RasaThis sparkling-clean, bare-walled restaurant is filled with travellers out for a taste of local food, but who come back for Martin, the charismatic owner and self-appointed 'captain of the boat'. He'll colourfully explain the short, whiteboard-scrawled menu cooked by his wife as jazz plays in the background.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Moni
Mopi's PlaceThis open-sided Indo-Australian affair starts with local coffee, house-made soy milk and freshly baked bread; it progresses to exceptional Indonesian mains with plenty of veg options and – if the musically gifted locals are around – morphs into a dance floor as live reggae echoes off the mountains.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Paga
Restaurant LaryssDon't miss this beachside fish shack. Sit at a tree-shaded table on the sand and order the catch of the day or a soul-stirring ikan kuah assam (tamarind fish soup). The sambal here demands second helpings. Owner and guide Agustinus Naban's wife, Cecilia, rubs fish with turmeric and ginger, douses it with lime and then roasts it over coconut shells.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Labuan Bajo
MadeInItalyBajo's best Italian is known for superb thin-crust pizza and fresh pasta. Sit in a stylish, semi-open dining room or air-conditioned cellar with river-stone walls. Ingredients are imported from Italy and grown on restaurant-owned organic farms. For a luxury experience, enquire about the Culinary Journey island boat trip. There's also a bottle shop on-site.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Gili Air
Ruby's CafeAt this expanded back-lane eatery, one of the finest places to eat in the Gilis, candles flicker atop wooden tables. The menu is short with daily specials; the secret here is the namesake genius in the kitchen. The calamari is perfectly light and crispy, the green curry is flavourful and nuanced, the burgers are simply superb. Great desserts, too.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Gili Trawangan
Casa Vintage BeachFacing Bali's Gunung Agung (which sometimes appears through the haze) and some superb sunsets, Casa Vintage is the best place to enjoy a sundowner on Trawangan. A brochure-perfect beach is littered with cushions and loungers, trees shelter hammocks and trestles. The food is fresh and healthy, with juices, smoothies, wraps and other tasty fare.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Gili Trawangan
Warung DewiThe best traditional warung on Gili T is just a few steps back from the high-priced bustle of the main strip. The nasi campur is fantastic (coconut sambal, jackfruit curry, fried chicken and several vegetable sides is a common combination) while vegetarians will like the plecing kangkung (a spicy Sasak water spinach dish).
Restaurants in Labuan Bajo
Happy BananaThis inviting spot has something for everyone, including vegans. Staff are trained in the art of sushi, with everything from udon noodles to gyoza made from scratch. The 'no rules' policy means you can start the day with a chia bowl and poached eggs or finish with fluffy gnocchi and tempura. Save room for vegan chocolate mousse.
Restaurants in Labuan Bajo
Blue CornerIf you have a predilection for local food, seek out this family-run warung with pink and blue walls. There's no English menu, but pictures on posters help. Juices are half the price of the Pasar Malam and sop buntut (oxtail soup) is the speciality – try the fried version.
Restaurants in Senggigi
SquareAn upscale restaurant with beautifully crafted seating and a menu that features Western and Indonesian fusion fare. The cooking is a cut above the local norm in terms of ambition. Many newcomers to Indonesia have been introduced to the cuisine by the tourist-friendly tasting menu. Get a table away from the road noise.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Gili Trawangan
Jali KitchenDistressed wood, gorgeous tiles and abundant foliage combine to give this eye-pleasing restaurant a chic and earthy vibe. The Asian-fusion dishes combine the familiar with the exotic in intriguing ways, and there are several options for vegetarians. Vietnamese noodles, the curries and the pad Thai are standouts.
Restaurants in Labuan Bajo
Rumah Makan GarudaThere are plenty of Padang restaurants at the southern end of Jl Soekarno Hatta, but Garuda is our pick. Point-and-order from the stacked window display: beef rendang, jackfruit curry, fried chicken or fish, tempe, egg and – if you're game – offal. Load up with garlicky sambal from tabletop jars.
Restaurants in Labuan Bajo
Pasar MalamBajo town's most atmospheric dinner spot. Waterfront stalls with hand-painted names are fronted by tables of fresh seafood, with others specialising in more affordable nasi goreng, mei goreng and bakso (meatball noodle soup). Shop around before committing to a fish and BYO Bintang.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Gili Trawangan
Pituq WaroengEnjoy classic Indonesian fare reinterpreted as exquisite vegan tapas at this back-lane haven. Gather a group of friends, sit together at one of the low-rise tables and order like there is no tomorrow as proceeds go to a variety of projects to improve local living conditions.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Gili Air
PachamamaThis oh-so-hip health-food restaurant brews its own kombucha, crafts exotic smoothies and cold-brew coffee (or cocktails!) and has lots of flavourful veg, vegan and gluten-free options. It's a bit out of the way in the northern interior, but well worth the hike.
Restaurants in Senggigi
Warung Lalapan AsikinFresh, spicy and authentic Indonesian food is cooked up on demand at this small stall under a tree. The spicy chicken dishes are much loved by discriminating locals. Grab one of the small plastic stools at the rickety wooden tables and dig in.
Restaurants in Gili Trawangan
Kayu CafeKayu has a lovely array of healthy baked goods, salads, sandwiches, rice bowls and the island's best juices. Savour it in air-con comfort or across the lane where the beachside tables have sweeping views of the boats zipping to and fro.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Kuta
Milk EspressoHopping all day long, this trendy bi-level cafe breathlessly segues from bountiful breakfasts to midday nibbles, healthy dinners and classy evening cocktails. Oh, and the strong coffee is sure to rev your engine any time of day!
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Kuta
El BazarKuta's most popular restaurant lives up to its stellar reputation with authentic tastes from around the Mediterranean. Kick things off with a meze platter and then move on to excellent kebabs, falafels or Moroccan tagines.
Top ChoiceRestaurants in Oebelo & Oesao
InzanaA traditional sweet shop so popular, it exists on both sides of the road to service traffic. It would be rude not to try kue bajongko, a Kupang-specific cake made from coconut, flour and palm sugar steamed in banana leaf. Also great are onde onde, glutenous pandan balls. Your driver will know the place. Stock up and ignore nearby competition.