Head to sleepy Joanes for total isolation. It’s got an appealing hotel and beach, the remains of a 17th-century Jesuit church, and hardly a soul in sight. There are no services, and the one hotel does not accept credit or debit cards.
Shuttles to and from the ferry at Camará cost R$7 (20 to 30 minutes). There are two morning shuttles from Joanes to Salvaterra and the boat pier (R$10, 7am and 9:30am) but no return service. Taxis charge R$60 to R$70 for the same trip, while moto-taxis are R$30 (but carry only one person, of course). Biking is possible, but can be a long hot haul.