Your first stop in Phobjikha should be the information centre of the Royal So­ciety for Protection of Nature’s (RSPN), which has informative displays about the black-necked cranes and the valley environment. You can use the centre’s powerful spotting scopes and check what you see against its pamphlet Field Guide to Crane Behaviour. This is also the centre of the valley’s fledgling ecotourism initiative, and it can arrange mountain-bike hire (Nu 700 per day), a hiking guide (Nu 500) and local homestays.

If the weather’s iffy, you can browse the library and handicraft shop and watch a 15-minute video.