Things to do in Ankara
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Anıt Kabir
The monumental mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881–1938), the founder of modern Turkey, is worth a visit to see how much sway he still holds over the Turkish people. Located high above the city, with an abundance of marble and an air of veneration, the Anıt Kabir is one of Ankara's more relaxing areas. As you approach the tomb, the Hurriyet Kulesi (Tower of Liberty) has interpretive panels and photos covering Atatürk's funeral, the construction of the tomb and the iconography of the site. Facing it, the İstiklal Kulesi (Tower of Independence) gives more detail, with models recreating scenes.
Continue along the Lion Rd, a 262m walkway lined with 24 lion statues –…
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Urfalı Hacı Mehmet
A welcome haven for family and female diners, kept clean and bright for maximum enjoyment of an extensive fast-food menu.
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Rahmi M Koç Industrial Museum
In the old Çengelhan the new Rahmi M Koç Industrial Museum is perfect for kids (and adults) who prefer a hands-on approach to staring at a bunch of pots behind glass, and has slightly less emphasis on transport than its original branch in İstanbul .
Walk straight ahead once you've entered the gate and you'll see, on your left, the citadel mosque, the Alaettin Camii, which dates from the 12th century but has been extensively rebuilt.
To your right a steep road leads to a flight of stairs taking you up to the Şark Kulesi (Eastern Tower), with panoramic city views. Although it's much harder to find, the tower at the north, Ak Kale (White Fort), also offers fine views. If …
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Museum of Anatolian Civilisations
The superb Museum of Anatolian Civilisations is the perfect introduction to the complex weave of Turkey's ancient past, housing artefacts cherry-picked from just about every significant archaeological site in Anatolia.
The museum is housed in a beautifully restored 15th-century bedesten (covered market). The 10-domed central marketplace houses reliefs and statues, while the surrounding hall displays exhibits from the earlier Anatolian civilisations: Palaeolithic, neolithic, chalcolithic, Bronze Age, Assyrian, Hittite, Phrygian, Urartian and Lydian. The downstairs sections hold classical Greek and Roman artefacts and a display on Ankara's history. Get there early to avoid t…
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Ethnography Museum
The Ethnography Museum is housed inside a white marble post-Ottoman building (1927) that served as Atatürk's mausoleum until 1953. To get there, go to Ulus metro station and follow Talat Paşa Bulvarı until you see the 'Etnografya Müzesi' sign (not the 'Resim ve Heykel Müzesi' sign).
Past the equestrian statue out front, the mausoleum is preserved in the entrance hall. Around the walls are photographs of Atatürk's funeral. The collection is superb, with displays covering henna ceremonies, Anatolian jewellery, rug-making, Seljuk ceramics, early-15th-century doors and (opposite the anxious-looking mannequins in the circumcision display) coffee. Also of interest are the c…
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Hacı Bayram Camii
Ankara's most revered mosque is Hacı Bayram Camii, near the Temple of Augustus & Rome. Hacı Bayram Veli was a Muslim 'saint' who founded the Bayramiye dervish order around 1400. Ankara was the order's centre and Hacı Bayram Veli is still revered by pious Muslims. The mosque precincts are ringed with shops selling religious paraphernalia (including wooden toothbrushes as used, supposedly, by the Prophet Mohammed).
You can buy food to feed the pigeons in the nearby pigeon feeding area (Güvercin Yemleme Alanı).
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Roman Baths
The sprawling ruins of these 3rd-century baths are 400m north of Ulus Meydanı. The layout of the baths is clearly visible; look for the standard Roman apoditerium (dressing room), frigidarium (cold room), tepidarium (warm room) and caldarium (hot room). A Byzantine tomb and Phrygian remains have also been found here. More excavations are in the pipelines.
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Museum of the War of Independence & Republic Museum
The former has a collection of military photographs and documents, housed in Turkey's first parliament (the Republican grand national assembly held early sessions here). The latter was the assembly's second headquarters, and features exhibits on the republic's beginnings.
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Open-Air Steam Locomotive Museum
The Open-Air Steam Locomotive Museum is a collection of slowly rusting vintage engines on the southwestern side of the station. To find it, descend the underpass as though you were going to the train platforms, but keep walking straight on. Just before entering the Tandoğan Kapalı Çarşı shopping area, climb the steps to your left, then turn right and continue for around 800m.
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Gençlik Parkı
Walk south from Ulus Meydanı along Atatürk Bulvarı and you'll soon reach the entrance to Gençlik Parkı, where Atatürk had a swamp converted into an artificial lake. The Luna Park funfair provides amusement for children and several pleasant çay bahçesi (tea gardens); single women should go for those with the word aile (family) in their name.
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Zenger Paşa Konağı
Crammed with Ottoman ephemera, the Zenger Paşa looks at first like a deserted ethnographic museum, but wealthy Ankaralıs love the pide, meze and grills, still cooked in the original Ottoman oven. The views of the city from the back porch are worth the visit alone; there's joyful live music most nights.
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Atakule
Ankara's landmark tower, the Atakule, has a revolving restaurant (mains TL16 to TL26) for 360-degree views; making a reservation exempts you from the admission fee. Shooting to the top in the glass lift is the hairiest part of the experience. There is a cinema in the mall at the bottom. Get here on Atakule- and Çankaya-bound buses down Atatürk Bulvarı.
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Kale Washington
By far the most elegant eatery in the old town, the 'WR' serves international cuisine to visiting dignitaries (Hillary Clinton reportedly ate here) and some Turkish specialities including halep işi kebap and su böreği. The views from the white tablecloths are most palatable.
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Republic Museum
The Republic Museum was the second headquarters of the grand national assembly, and its early history appears in photographs and documents. The captions are in Turkish but you don't need to read anything to get a sense of the republic's modest beginnings. The assembly itself is now housed in a rather more imposing building in Bakanlıklar.
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Kocatepe Camii
The outline of the huge Kocatepe Camii in Kızılay is now the symbol of Ankara. It may be one of the largest mosques in the world but it is also very new. However, Ankara does still have one or two older mosques, and the relics in the Ethnography Museums are poignant reminders of others that have long since disappeared.
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Railway Museum & Art Gallery
While waiting for a train at Ankara station you may want to take a look at the Railway Museum & Art Gallery, a small building on platform one that served as Atatürk's residence during the War of Independence. Right beside it is Atatürk's private rail coach, a gift from one Adolf Hitler.
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Boyacızâde Konağı
Entered via a cluttered courtyard, this wonderfully converted mansion-restaurant offers great views, typical Ottoman-stalgic decor and good fish dishes. Fasıl (Turkish classical) music provides the entertainment.
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Tapa Tapa Tapas
The chef plays it a bit safe with the chilli and with the booze level of the sangria (€3.50), but the sheer novelty of finding albondigas and patatas bravas in Turkey doesn't wear off fast. Pasta, crêpes and grills round out the menu.
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IF Performance Hall
This grand basement venue stages big acts, both international and Turkish, with a distinctive '90s rock flavour.
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Hatipoğlu Konağı
The touristy set menus here are good value, but watch those steps if you go for the unlimited-alcohol option! Acoustic groups play here every day except Sunday. To find it, come out of the citadel through the Parmak Kapısı and turn left.
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Şengül Merkez Hamamı
There are several hamams east of Opera Meydanı, including Şengül Merkez Hamamı, which has separate sections for men and women.
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Vakıf Suluhan Çarşısı
Behind the Ulus vegetable market, on Konya Caddesi, is the Vakıf Suluhan Çarşısı, a restored han (caravanserai) with clothes shops, a café, toilets and a small free-standing mosque in its courtyard.
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Wok
Achingly fashionable, this mixed Oriental bar-restaurant above a BMW showroom supplements its pan-Asian menu with sophisticated European dishes and electronic music. For added entertainment, certain tables get a view of the kitchen action.
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Köşk
Specialising in fish, the Köşk cultivates a slightly staid air to please the decorum-minded older diners that form its core demographic, though at €1.40 the beer's cheap enough to enthuse the younger crowd as well.
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Aquapark Club Watercity
Further out of town in Gölbaşı, Aquapark Club Watercity has a range of outdoor, indoor and children's pools, sports facilities, water slides and restaurants. Dolmuşes run here from Opera Meydanı.
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