Jaffna & the North

Introducing Jaffna & the North

Towering, ornate Hindu temples, colourful saris draped effortlessly over women on bicycles, the sweet fragrance of fruit trees on a tropical breeze – the cultural contrasts between the North and the rest of Sri Lanka are immediately apparent. The differences run deep: from the language (the rapid-fire staccato of spoken Tamil, a real change from singsong Sinhala) to the cuisine (singularly spiced and in the right season complemented by mangoes that are the stuff of legend) and the low-lying palmyra-palm-spotted landscape. Even the light in the North has a distinctive quality, reflected as deep garden greens in the quiet suburbs of Jaffna, or softening the battle-scarred centre. Yet, you are still certainly in Sri Lanka – just an area much set apart.

For good reason, especially given the recent history, tourists are unusual here and get a rare welcome. The people of the peninsula, although much embattled, remain proud of their heritage and eager to share it. Meeting the industrious, highly educated locals is a memorable reward for those who do make the journey. Conversations sometimes fascinatingly underscore the gulf of misunderstanding between the Tamil heartland and the Sinhalese South.

The history of conflict in the North need not scare you off. However, in light of the recent government advances against the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE), who once ran the Vanni region virtually as a separate country, be prepared for army checkpoints, road closures, no-go zones and reduced services. Sensitivity, tact and open-mindedness will be key, but then they always should be.

Also be prepared for drenching rain during the northeastern monsoon (October to January) or tough dry heat the rest of the year. In sweaty August, Jaffna goes wild during the extraordinary Nallur festival.

Last updated: Jul 20, 2009