Lisbon: grab a tram, a tart and an eyeful

Jun 28, 2010 4:04:43 AM

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Ticket to ride

Vintage tram 28 offers the ultimate spin of Lisbon’s sights – from Basílica da Estrela to the backstreets of Baixa – for the price of a €1.35 ticket. The route from Campo Ourique to Martim Moniz is 45 minutes of astonishing views and absurdly steep climbs. The most exciting bit is when the tram commences its rattling climb to Alfama, where passengers lean perilously out of the window for an in-motion shot of the sé or hop out for postcard-perfect views from Miradouro de Santa Luzia. The final stretch negotiates narrow streets and hairpin bends up to Graça, where you can get out to explore Igreja de São Vicente de Fora.

Pastéis!

Pastelerias (pastry and cake shops) are temples to cream-filled treats that are never more than a few paces away. You’ll see locals devouring flaky pastéis de nata (custard tarts) or whiling away afternoons sipping bicas (espresso). You can kiss the diet goodbye, but take heart: for every blob of cream, there’s another step to climb in Lisbon’s steeply twisting streets, so you can counteract the indulgence with a vigorous urban workout.

Get a view of the city

You might curse the cobbles as you’re puffing up the steep stairways lacing Alfama and Graça, but take heart in the fact that they lead to heavenly miradouros (viewpoints):

Largo das Portas do Sol - This original Moorish gateway affords stunning angles over Alfama’s jumble of red rooftops and pastel-coloured houses, underscored by the true blue Tejo.
Miradouro de Santa Luzi - A fountain trickles at this lookout shaded by bougainvillea and vines, offering superlative vistas over Alfama’s blushing rooftops to the river. At the back, notice the blue-and-white azulejos depicting scenes from the Siege of Lisbon in 1147.
Miradouro da Graça - Young Lisboetas flock to this pine-fringed square at dusk for sundowners and sweeping vistas over central Lisbon.
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte - Lisbon spreads out before you at Graça’s highest of the high. Come for the best views of the castle on the hill opposite.

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Comments

26 May 2010 1:58AM ed2go Report this comment
Just be carefull in the tram,its one of the favorite pickpockets "working"areas,they enter in baixa,when the tram starts the climb to the old part of town,they also can be seen in the 15 tram that goes to belem, were is the original tarts are made,and on the elevator that goes from restauradores to bairro alto,the better place in lisbon to have a drink or dinner or just wandering around ,but like any big city in the world ,keep your values in a safe place,never on a backpack or backpocket,cause its to easy for them!.Im from Lisboa and its my favorite way to travel,i just feel bad everytime i see them,like hienas rounding tourists,but dont be scare just cautious,and you will love the ride and the tarts too.
6 July 2010 8:59AM avacha87 Report this comment
Alfama is really magic place of the city. Just take away your map and get lost there. Actually no map would help: narrow streets are unpredictable. I managed to get lost with my friend from Lisboa, so you may imagin that it is like labirint. But staring at you locals, old buildings, hanging portuguese flags in an row with cloth, cats and many other things are making that special atmosphere around...
If you are in Belem area, you should try the original tarts there: Pasteis de Belem. You may find them in the cafe with the same name. And don't afraid to take the tarts with you on the way home for example. They survived even after my long trip home and i had pleasure to share the portuguese pastry with my friends.