Trailokya Mohan Narayan Temple
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Kumari Bahal information
Lonely Planet review
At the junction of Durbar and Basantapur Sqs, this red brick, three-storey building is home to the Kumari, the girl who is selected to be the town’s living goddess until she reaches puberty and reverts to being a normal mortal. The building, in the style of the Buddhist viharas (monastic abodes) of the valley, was built in 1757 by Jaya Prakash Malla.
Inside the building is Kumari Chowk , a three-storey courtyard. It is enclosed by magnificently carved wooden balconies and windows, making it quite possibly the most beautiful courtyard in Nepal. Photographing the goddess is forbidden, but you are quite free to photograph the courtyard when she is not present.
The Kumari went on strike in 2005, refusing to appear at her window for tourists, after authorities denied her guardians’ request for a 10% cut of the square’s admission fees!
The courtyard contains a miniature stupa carrying the symbols of Saraswati, the goddess of learning. Non-Hindus are not allowed to go beyond the courtyard.
The large yellow gate to the right of the Kumari Bahal conceals the huge chariot that transports the Kumari around the city during the annual Indra Jatra festival. Look for the huge wooden runners in front of the Kumari Bahal that are used to transport the chariot. The wood is painted at the tips and is considered sacred. You can see part of the chariot from the top of the nearby Trailokya Mohan Narayan Temple steps.