Getting there & away
Contents
Travel documents
Passport
All nationals entering as tourists need a passport that is valid for at least six months after arrival. You are legally required to have your passport on you at all times. Many people carry only a copy when they’re hanging around a town, though this is not an officially acceptable form of ID. Never take buses, boats, drives or otherwise travel without your passport.
Tickets
Airfares to South America are fairly costly from just about anywhere outside the continent. Ticket prices are highest during the tourist high seasons of mid-June through early September, and then December through mid-January. Working with a travel agent that deals specifically in Latin American travel is always an advantage.
Sea
Very few cruise ships use Guayaquil as a port of call as they head down the Pacific coast of South America. Occasionally you can find a ship going to Guayaquil, Ecuador’s main port, although this is a very unusual way to arrive in Ecuador. It’s certainly cheaper and more convenient to fly.
A few cargo lines will carry passengers, though it usually costs more than flying. If you’re determined to get here by freighter, you can start your research online at www.travel-library.com/rtw/html/rtwfreighters.html and at the Internet Guide to Freighter Travel (www.geocities.com/freighterman.geo/mainmenu.html).
It is possible to arrive in Ecuador on your own sailing boat or, if you don’t happen to have one, as a crew member. In Ecuador, Salinas is the port most frequented by international yachts. For further information, read the World Cruising Handbook by Jimmy Cornell.
Water
River
Since the 1998 peace treaty was signed with Peru, it has been possible to travel down the Río Napo from Ecuador to Peru, joining the Amazon near Iquitos. The border facilities are minimal, and the boats doing the journey are infrequent, but it is possible to do the trip. It is also geographically possible to travel down Río Putumayo into Colombia and Peru, but this is a dangerous region because of drug smuggling and terrorism, and is not recommended.
Land
If you live in the Americas, it is possible to travel overland by bus. However, if you want to start from North or Central America, the Panamericana (Pan–American Highway) stops in Panama and begins again in Colombia, leaving a 200km roadless section of jungle known as the Darien Gap. The Darien Gap has become increasingly dangerous because of banditry and drug-related problems, especially on the Colombian side, so you are advised not to try to cross it. Most overland travelers fly over the Darien Gap or hire on as a crew member on a private yacht that will sail from Panama to Colombia.
Once in South America, it is relatively straightforward to travel by public bus from the neighboring Andean countries.
Bicycle
There is no extra charge for entering Ecuador by land with a bicycle; it’s as straightforward as entering by foot.
Border crossings
Peru and Colombia are the only two countries sharing borders with Ecuador. If you are entering or leaving Ecuador, border formalities are straightforward if your documents are in order. No taxes are levied on tourists when entering or exiting overland.
If you’re leaving the country and have lost your embarkation card, you should be able to get a free replacement at the border, assuming that the stamp in your passport has not expired. If your documents aren’t in order, several things might happen. If you’ve overstayed the allowed time by a few days, you’ll likely be required to pay a fine, usually about $10. (This really is a fine, not a bribe.) If you’ve overstayed by several months, you may have to pay a hefty fine or you will be sent back to Quito. If you don’t have an entrada (entrance) stamp, you will also be sent back.
Peru
There are three important border posts connecting Ecuador and Peru. All are safe. The Huaquillas crossing, south of Machala, gets almost 100% of the international traffic between the two countries. A second crossing, at Macará, has recently become popular because it’s more relaxed than the Huaquillas crossing, and the journey from Loja in the southern highlands is beautiful. Direct buses run between Loja and Piura, Peru (eight hours) via Macará and wait for you at the border while you take care of formalities. It’s easy. The least used crossing is the La Balsa crossing at Zumba, south of Vilcabamba. This is a remote and interesting crossing that gets little traffic. People often hang out in Vilcabamba for a few days before heading to Zumba and Peru.
A fourth crossing is by river via the outpost of Nuevo Rocafuerte on the Río Napo in the Oriente. This is a long journey that is rarely undertaken by foreigners – but it’s possible.
Colombia
The main border crossing to Colombia is via Tulcán in the northern highlands. It’s currently the only safe place to cross into Colombia. The border crossing north of Lago Agrio in the Oriente is unsafe due to smuggling and conflict in Colombia.
Bus
Bussing into Ecuador from Colombia or Peru is straightforward and usually requires walking across one of the international borders and catching another bus once you’re across. Some international bus companies offer direct, long-haul services from major cities such as Lima or Bogotá.
Car & motorcycle
Driving a private vehicle into Ecuador can be a huge hassle, depending largely upon the mood of the official who stops you at the border. To bring your car into Ecuador, you are officially required to have a Carnet de Passage en Douane (CPD), an internationally recognized customs document that allows you to temporarily ‘import’ a vehicle into Ecuador without paying an import tax. The document is issued through an automobile club in the country where the car is registered, and you are strongly advised to obtain one well in advance. Motorcycles seem to present fewer hassles at the border.
Entering the destination
Entering the country
Entering the country is straightforward, and border officials, especially at the airports, mince few words whisking you through. At land borders, officers may take a little more time examining your passport, if only to kill a little time. Officially, you need proof of onward travel and evidence of sufficient funds for your stay, but this is rarely – if ever – asked for. Proof of $20 per day or a credit card is usually evidence of sufficient funds. However, international airlines flying to Quito may require a round-trip or onward ticket or a residence visa before they let you on the plane; you should be prepared for this possibility, though it’s unlikely. Though not law, you may be required to show proof of vaccination against yellow fever if you are entering Ecuador from an infected area.
Air
Airports & airlines
Two major international airports serve Ecuador: Quito’s Aeropuerto Mariscal Sucre (UIO; 02-294 4900; www.quitoairport.com ; Av Amazonas at Av de la Prensa) and Guayaquil’s Aeropuerto Simón Bolívar (GYE; 04-228 2100, 228 9616; Av de las Américas s/n).
TAME (www.tame.com.ec) is Ecuador’s main airline, but aside from its short border- hopper flight from Tulcán to Cali, Colombia, it offers no international flights.
The following international airlines serve Ecuador. Unless otherwise noted, the telephone numbers given are for the airlines’ Quito offices.
Aeropostal Alas de Venezuela (airline code VH; 02-226 4392/6; www.aeropostal.com ; hub Caracas, Venezuela)
Air Europa(airline code UX; 02-2567646/7; www.aireuropa.com ; hub Madrid, Spain)
AirFrance (airline code AF; 02-222 4818, 222 1605; www.airfrance.com ; hub Paris, France)
AirMadrid (airline code NM; 02-227 4919; www.airmadrid.com ; hub Madrid, Spain)
American Airlines (airline code AA; 02-226 0900; www.aa.com ; hubs Dallas, TX & Chicago, IL, USA)
Avianca (airline code AV; 02-223 2015/16/20; www.avianca.com ; hub Bogotá, Colombia)
Continental Airlines (airline code CO; 02-255 7170/64/65/66; www.continental.com ; hub Houston, TX, USA)
Copa (airline code CM;02-230 3227/39/11; www.copaair.com ; hub Panama City, Panama)
Grupo TACA (airline code TA; 02-292 3170/69/68/67; www.grupotaca.com ; hub San Salvador, El Salvador)
Iberia (airline code IB; 02-256 6009; www.iberia.com ; hub Madrid, Spain)
KLM (airline code KL; 02-298 6828; www.klm.com ; hub Amsterdam, Holland)
LAN Airlines (airline code LA; 02-250 8396; 250 8400; www.lanchile.com , www.lan.com ; hub Santiago, Chile)
Lufthansa (airline code LH; 02-254 1300, 250 8396; www.lufthansa.com ; hub Cologne, Germany)
Santa Bárbara Airlines (airline code S3; 02-225 3972; www.santabarbaraairlines.com ; hub Caracas, Venezuela)
Australia
There is no real choice of routes between Australia and South America, and there are certainly no bargain fares available. The two most straightforward options are: fly Qantas or Air New Zealand to Los Angeles (USA) and fly from there (most easily via Houston or Miami) to Quito; or fly Aerolíneas Argentinas to Buenos Aires, from where there are direct flights to Quito. Another alternative is flying Qantas to Santiago, Chile and connecting with a LanChile flight north to Ecuador.
Some of the cheapest tickets are available through STA Travel (1300 733 035; www.statravel.com.au) and Flight Centre (133 133; www.flightcentre.com.au), both of which have dozens of offices in the country. For online bookings, try www.travel.com.au.
Canada
Air Canada, American Airlines and United fly from Toronto or Montreal via New York or Miami to Guayaquil or Quito. The most direct flights (one stop only) are with Air Canada via Miami or with Continental via Houston, Texas. Flights from Montreal via New York also stop in Miami before continuing to Quito.
Travel Cuts (800-667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) is Canada’s national student travel agency. For online bookings try www.expedia.ca and www.travelocity.ca.
Continental Europe
There are few direct flights from Europe to Ecuador; most involve a change of plane and airline in Miami or Houston, or in a South American capital other than Quito. Iberia, Air Europa, Air Madrid and LAN Airlines (LanChile/LanEcuador) all fly nonstop to Quito or Guayaquil from Madrid. There are no other nonstop flights from Continental Europe.
France
The following travel agencies are good possibilities for bargain fares from France:
Anyway (08 92 89 38 92; www.anyway.fr)
Lastminute (08 92 70 50 00; www.lastminute.fr)
Nouvelles Frontiéres (08 25 00 07 47; www.nouvelles-frontieres.fr)
OTU Voyages(www.otu.fr) This agency specializes in student and youth travelers.
Voyageurs du Monde (01 40 15 11 15; www.vdm.com)
Germany
The following travel agencies are good possibilities for bargain fares from Germany:
Expedia (www.expedia.de)
Just Travel (089 747 3330; www.justtravel.de)
Lastminute (01805 284 366; www.lastminute.de)
STA Travel (01805 456 422; www.statravel.de) For travelers under the age of 26.
Italy
One recommended agency is CTS Viaggi (06 462 0431; www.cts.it), which specializes in student and youth travel.
Netherlands
Try Airfair (020 620 5121; www.airfair.nl).
Latin America
There are loads of flights from Quito or Guayaquil to South American countries, including Colombia (Bogotá, Cali and Cartagena); Argentina (Buenos Aires); Venezuela (Caracas); Bolivia (La Paz); Peru (Lima); Chile (Santiago); and Brazil (Sao Paulo and Río de Janeiro). There are also direct flights to Mexico City, Panama City and Havana, Cuba.
New Zealand
As with Australia, there are no direct routes to Ecuador from New Zealand. Your best bets are flying Air New Zealand to Los Angeles (USA) or Aerolíneas Argentinas to Buenos Aires and connecting from either of these cities to Quito. Qantas also flies from Auckland to Santiago, Chile, where you can connect with a LanChile flight to Ecuador.
Both Flight Centre (0800 243 544; www.flightcentre.co.nz) and STA Travel (0508 782 872; www.statravel.co.nz) have branches throughout the country. For online bookings try www.travel.co.nz.
UK & Ireland
There are no direct flights from the UK or Ireland to Ecuador. Fares from London are often cheaper than those from other European cities, even though your flight route may take you from London through a European city.
Discount air travel is big business in London. Advertisements for many travel agencies can be found in the travel pages of the weekend broadsheet newspapers, in Time Out, the Evening Standard and in the free online magazine TNT (www.tntmagazine.com).
Recommended travel agencies in the UK include the following:
Bridge the World (0870 444 7474; www.b-t-w.co.uk)
Flightbookers (0870 814 4001; www.ebookers.com)
Flight Centre (0870 890 8099; www.flightcentre.co.uk)
North-South Travel (01245 608 291; www.northsouthtravel.co.uk) North-South Travel donate part of their profit to projects in the developing world.
Quest Travel (0870 442 3542; www.questtravel.com)
STA Travel (0870 160 0599; www.statravel.co.uk) For travelers under the age of 26.
Trailfinders (www.trailfinders.co.uk)
Travel Bag (0870 890 1456; www.travelbag.co.uk)
USA
From the USA, you can get a direct flight nonstop to Quito or Guayaquil from the gateways of New York, Houston and Miami. American Airlines and Continental are the main US carriers, and some Latin American airlines, especially LanChile/LanEcuador and Grupo TACA fly to Ecuador; in the case of the latter, via Central America. Flights from other cities or with any of the other airlines require an aircraft change in the US gateways listed earlier, or in another Latin American capital.
Latin American travel specialist eXito Travel (800-655-4053; www.exitotravel.com) offers some of the cheapest fares around as well as personal service (such as flight changes from abroad, travel recommendations and more) from an impressively well-informed staff.
Discount travel agents in the USA are known as consolidators (although you won’t see a sign on the door saying ‘Consolidator’). San Francisco is the nation’s consolidator capital, although some good deals can be found in Los Angeles, New York and other big cities.
The following agencies are recommended for online bookings:
Cheap Tickets (www.cheaptickets.com)
Expedia (www.expedia.com)
Lowestfare.com (www.lowestfare.com)
Orbitz (www.orbitz.com)
STA Travel(www.sta.com) Best for travelers under the age of 26.
Travelocity (www.travelocity.com)
