Lonely Planet review
For much of the 1990s' war, Sarajevo was virtually surrounded by hostile Serb forces. Butmir was the last Bosniak-held part of the city still linked to the outside world. However, between Butmir and Sarajevo lies the airport runway. Although it was supposedly neutral and under tenuous UN control, crossing it would have been suicidal during the conflict. The solution, in extremis, was a hand-dug 800m tunnel beneath the runway. That proved just enough to keep Sarajevo supplied with arms and food during the three-year siege. Most of the tunnel has since collapsed, but this unmissable museum retains a 20m section and gives visitors just a glimpse of its hopes and horrors. Photos are displayed around the shell-pounded house that hides the tunnel entrance and there's a 20-minute video wordlessly showing footage of the city bombardment and the wartime tunnel experience.
Joining a city tour that includes a visit here can often prove cheaper than coming by taxi and your guide can add a lot of useful insight. Alternatively take tram 3 to Ilidža (35 minutes, 11km from Baščaršija), then switch to Kotorac-bound bus 32 (10 minutes, twice hourly, 3km). Get off at the last stop, walk across the bridge, then turn immediately left down Tuneli for 500m.