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  • 8 June 2012
  • 10:05pm
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Bangkok: still the world’s greatest backpacker hub?

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This is a guest post from Colm Hanratty, Editor at Hostelworld.com.


Backpackers on the Khao San Road, Bangkok. Photo by Carol Wiley

Bangkok is unique for many reasons. On every second street corner you can sit down and get food that will tantalise your taste buds for next to nothing. Upon sitting down to eat, in the blink of an eyelid you can see a bunch of ‘working girls’ rub shoulders with a group of orange-clad Buddhists, all to the soundtrack of tuk-tuk drivers, hawkers at stalls and farang (foreigners) from all over the world. That’s why I love it. You genuinely don’t know where to set your eyes.

Something else that makes it unique is a road almost exclusively populated by budget travellers from around the globe: the Khao San Road. Located in the Banglamphu neighbourhood, it is the undeniable backpacker capital of the universe.

Having been lucky enough to have been to Bangkok twice in the last nine months, I was asked whether the Khao San Road still reigns supreme for budget travellers going to Thailand. Is it where all the guesthouses and hostels are located? Are they as grubby as the one featured at the beginning of The Beach, or more like the ones budget travellers have become accustomed to, like in Europe and Australia? Well, the answer to these questions is yes and no.

Let me start with the Khao San Road. Make no mistake about it – this is still the backpacker hub of Bangkok. Or rather, the backpacking hub of the universe. Beginning at the landmark pub at the top, Gulliver’s Travellers, as you walk down you’ll encounter people from all over the world eating pad thai on the street, haggling stall owners for knock-off Ray-Bans and you’re bound to see somebody getting dreadlocks put into their hair. It is unlike any other road in the world.

When it comes to hostels and guesthouses, while many are still in chaotic Banglamphu, budget accommodation is found all over the city. As well near the famous backpacker strip, you can also find hostels over the new side of town in more modern areas like Siam Square and Silom with their own cafés and bars.

But what are these hostels like? Will I be sharing a room with nine other budget travellers from across the globe or will I have a smaller dorm, or even better, a private room?

The common area at Lub D hostel in Bangkok. Photo used with permission

While hostels still have dorms sleeping 10 people, they are modern and spotlessly clean. The dingy hostel that has four walls, a roof, a bed and a pillow is something of yesteryear. Take Lub D Siam Square for instance. Found in the bustling new part of the city near the Skytrain, it has its own bar, private rooms, while its biggest dorm is a four-bed ‘deluxe dorm’. Its sister hostel nearby in Silom even has a ‘theatre room’ where you can chill out and catch a movie. If you really do want to be in the thick of it near ‘the Khao San’, you could stay somewhere like NapPark (voted ‘Best Hostel in Thailand’ by our customers last year) that offers free WiFi and boasts all mod cons but is in a traditional Thai building.

Southeast Asia is the backpacking Mecca of the world, and the gateway to it is Bangkok. It was like that 20 years ago and it’s the same today. But that’s not to say things haven’t changed – they have, and for the better. You can still sit down in any bar along the world’s most famous backpacker strip and strike up a conversation about your travels with people from all across the world. The only difference is that now you can enjoy budget accommodation with a few home comforts.


This is a guest post by Colm Hanratty, Editor at Hostelworld.com. Check out Colm’s blog on the Hostelworld website here. You can also keep up to date with them on Facebook, follow both Colm and Hostelworld on Twitter as well check out their videos on YouTube.

Show comments Hide 25 comments

  1. June 8, 2012 samtang1971 Report this comment

    Nice

  2. June 9, 2012 autumo Report this comment

    Awesome post, I’m looking forward to backpacking through S.E. Asia!

    Thanks

  3. June 10, 2012 anthonymaw Report this comment

    Yeah I spent a week in Bangkok and still don’t feel I saw it all. Unfortunately Khao San Road being the tourist mecca that it is is not the real experience but rather contrived to cater to tourist interests. For a real experience take the BTS Skytrain to visit other parts of the city where tourists don’t usually explore. Also take the canal boat ferries to move around a bit away from the crowded tourist areas to really get a sense of the town. anthony maw, vancouver, canada

  4. June 10, 2012 aspirational Report this comment

    It’s good to hear the SE Asia is still the place for backpackers

  5. June 10, 2012 hassansorensen Report this comment

    Working in Bangkok for a few years I actually lived in the Khao Sarn Road neighborhood for six months, before moving to another part of the city, and even though it’s not the ‘real’ Bangkok, and all for tourists, I still consider Khao Sarn Road to be among my top five places in the world. Food and other goods from all of Thailand in one small street, spiced up with an international atmosphere, and all very unpretentious, and that, my friends, is what Bangkok is all about.

  6. June 10, 2012 hassansorensen Report this comment

    A very cool ‘must-have’ is Nancy Chandlers hand drawn map with added remarks, available in better bookstores around the city. Or purchase online before going: Google “Nancy Chandler Map”. Alongside LP’s Bangkok App, that’s all you need.

  7. June 10, 2012 vasenka Report this comment

    Khao San Road is a little wild…sort of like Bourbon Street in New Orleans…or Kuta Beach in Bali…same crowd… Its packed day and night…a bit tacky…over 30′s would tire of it quickly…

    Actually the surrounding streets are starting to provide better options for tourists…and less noise!

    If you are a light sleeper the music on Khao San can be a problem…I generally stay at least a block or so off the main road… Sawasdee Inn has several reasonable hotel/hostle options in that area…fairly cheap.

    I like the Khao San area…its close to the major sights…walking distance really… But Khao San is not Bangkok…! And Siam Square…mostly glitzy malls…but why travel 12 hours in a plane to go to a mall…?

    The legendary traffic in Bangkok is bad…but really not that bad…and I mostly travel by Tuk Tuk… They are not dangerous…if you can avoid being taken to a “nice market” by the driver…

  8. June 10, 2012 billy2naseer Report this comment

    Khao san is Amazing

  9. June 10, 2012 zhenglaien Report this comment

    I have been to Thailand, Bangkok (BKK) and Khao San Rd.(KSR) twice several years ago. There were good and not so good points to it to me.

    Good:

    1.) BKK is the most central hub to Thailand travel and more or less travel to the rest of SE Asia and Asia for that matter.

    2.) KSR is a place where one can get information, book tours, whatever else one needs.

    3.) There is no sex trade or “girlie” places there, and KSR keeps them away.

    Bad:

    1.) BKK basically sucks. There are a few things of general interest, but not much. It is a very crowded city and not very clean.

    2.) KSR, although mostly safe, has a seedy element to it, and one can get in trouble here if one loses their head (drinking or whatever).

    3.) The “Land of Smiles” isn’t KSR. I found most of the people to be surly, greedy, unfriendly etc. Probably because they cater to foreigners all the time and do not have to be that friendly, since most travellers will only stay there once and move on.

  10. June 12, 2012 mary1904 Report this comment

    Just been back from a short trip to Bangkok. It`s still my favourite city in the world. The atmophere around Khao San Road is unique and I love it.

  11. June 12, 2012 cooker3 Report this comment

    Khaosan is what it is. If you want great, cheap street food it’s here, if you want, pricier western food it’s here. If you want drunken debauchery it’s here. If you want a ‘real’ Thai cultural experience then it’s not here. I still think it is the best backpacker experience. Silom is a bit too upmarket for me although it has better transport links.

    Accommodation can be pricey relative to other Asian backpacker hubs. Dorms room tend to be 300 baht+ and getting a non dingy room will be at least 160 which is a bit backwards as dorms should be cheaper but yet to find 1.

    I still enjoy it but byno means do I love it.

  12. June 12, 2012 jessrego Report this comment

    Bangkok is fun! Despite it not being a “real” travelling experience as lots of people say, it’s an addictive city with much to offer from temples, markets and great nights out.
    Nap Park is the best backpachers hostel to stay at, I have been travelling for a while and I just keep going back to Nap Park whenever I’m in Bangkok for a couple of days. The staff are incredibly friendly, the dorms are good, clean and the beds are really comfortable. The atmosphere is relaxed yet great fun and I spent days just meeting new people and hanging out in the comunal area with them. I would recommend it to anyone travelling solo and wanting to make some good friends to party it up. It’s honestly worth the little extra Bhatt for what you get in return!

  13. June 12, 2012 tom_gardner Report this comment

    It’s true to say that there are more interesting places across Thailand than Bangkok but at some point you will almost definitely end up in Khao San and this as far as I see is no bad thing!. It’s an awesome city to meet other backpackers and have a crazy fun few nights. This depends of course on the hostel you choose, my personal advice for any future backpackers staying in Bangkok is undoubtedly Nap Park as it is a short distance from Khao San but far enough that your not right in the middle of the crazyiness all the time, really friendly, clean and comfortable and the best place to meet new people.

  14. June 13, 2012 aldeen Report this comment

    I have been in Bangkok for one week now and I tested a few hostels to end up at Nap Park Hostel. I can tell you guys, that Nap park was by far the best one. As Jessrego said, the staff is friendly and helpful for your booking or for advising you. The rooms and bathrooms are very clean, the furniture is recent. The communal room is just perfect to chill, meet people and have a chat. The wifi network is very good, (I just had a skype interview for a job and it was perfect)
    Three minutes walking from the famous kaosan road where you will certainly go, but far enough to allow you to have a good sleep.
    Nap Park is a really good place to make some friends for the big nights out that you are gonna have guys, and I definitely recommend it!

  15. June 13, 2012 lip1358 Report this comment

    There’s a big field (open area) near there where you can go and get cheap massage at night. Cheaper than what’s on that road anyways.

  16. June 14, 2012 mrmanav Report this comment

    a few points in this article and fresh out of university students in hoards is why i have avoided south east asia. though i wouldn’t mind going there at some point. i just don’t think i would be able to bare it. a shame really

  17. June 14, 2012 lyallfraser Report this comment

    Fantastic hostel in an excellent location next to Khao San Road. Staff are very friendly, helpful and provide you with a list of fun activities to do in Bangkok if you are stuck. Free internet cafe + wifi, Rooms are cleaned on a daily basis and lockers/safety box available for all your valuables. Toilets and showering facilities are clean and very spacious. Will be using this hostel again upon my return!! 10/10.

  18. June 14, 2012 badsanta76 Report this comment

    I generally avoid Khao San road,not my crowd, but I did enjoy the article. One issue though…your reference to “a bunch of ‘working girls’ rub shoulders with a group of orange-clad Buddhists” is not appropriate. Monks are forbidden from “rubbing shoulders” with females. Editing that sentence might be appropriate.

  19. June 15, 2012 antonio2778 Report this comment

    Este lugar es magnifico, me ha encantado todo…se que es dificil reservar una guest house desde internet conociendo solamente unas fotos de la pagina, pero en este caso hemos acertado: todo es muy limpio, la gente que te recibe y trabaja alli es muy amable y simpatica, tienen ordenadores para poder conectarte a internet sin pagar nada durante las 24 horas, y wifi para los moviles y ordenadores portatiles, hay una tele para poder ver peliculas que tu mismo puedes elegir, ponen musica para relajarte mientras estas descansando en una de su colchones…si quieres beber tienes un frigorifico para tomarte una cerveza o agua. Las habitaciones son muy comodas, con colchas muy gruesas como a mi me gusta, y tienen aire acondicionado (a veces muy fuerte), tienes consignas para dejar tu mochila con un candado, y la gente que suele estar alojada aqui es muy amable…si quieres lavar la ropa puedes hacerlo en una lavadora que hay en la parte de arriba…en definitiva, no te lo pienses si lees, esto…yo no lo hare la proxima vez que vuelva…y sera pronto.

  20. June 17, 2012 nita1984 Report this comment

    i was in Bangkok about one year ago…went there to attend *water festival*~called Songkran Festival by locals.People there are very passionate and hospitable,we really had fun there.If you are budget traveller like us,Thailand will be a very good choice to visit.Wish you all have a good trip there. :)

  21. June 18, 2012 julie_l Report this comment

    I’m currently in Bangkok, and the (local) bus I was on today went past Kao San Road. Gee, it looks like a dump. I’m glad I’m not staying there. But each to their own. If people want to stay there good on ‘em.

  22. June 27, 2012 ranjanpadhi Report this comment

    @Julie_l I totally agree with you, I have never been to Bangkok but heard from couple of my friends that you will not like to stand for a second. Being in Mumbai, India I visit such places daily on my way to office. its a short-cut way :) BTW Bangkok too have many eye catching beauties that I would like to view soon.

  23. July 30, 2012 weeoil Report this comment

    i think it still is.

  24. August 14, 2012 virbastin Report this comment

    i was in Bangkok last Jan/Feb. Loved it! But I hated Khao San Road, I went once just see it myself and was happy not to be staying there… more tourists than actual Thais, where’s the fun in that?(especially after flying for 25 hours to see Thailand)I found the atmosphere to be completely different from the rest of Thailand! That’s just me though…

  25. August 15, 2012 ssverlij Report this comment

    YO ME ALOJÉ EN 2004 EN EL HOSTEL DE HOSTELLING INTERNATIONAL, Y FUE UN INFIERNO. EL CUARTO PRIVADO ERA COMO UNA CELDA, SIN VENTANAS, DONDE SOLO CABÍA LA CAMA Y LA MALETA. LA CAMA SOLO TENÍA SÁBANA DE ABAJO, Y EL AIRE ACONDICIONADO ERA CENTRAL, Y COMO NO TENÍA SÁBANA NI MANTA PARA TAPARME, ME MORÍA DE FRÍO. EL BARRIO NUNCA SUPE DONDE ESTABA Y CERCA HABÍA UN MERCADO CON PUESTOS DE COMIDA QUE SE VEÍAN MUY SUCIOS. LO PASÉ REALMENTE MAL.