Must-see hotels in West Africa

  • Hotel Onanga

    Republic of Congo

    Formerly the Hotel Mindongo, this is the smartest place in Ouesso, and has a labyrinth of rooms centred on a superb pool complete with sun loungers.

  • Koral Beach Hotel

    Côte d'Ivoire

    Run by the wonderful and energetic Cheryl, the KBH has been redecorated to perfection – it's all African wood sculptures and white, pristine walls. The…

  • Hôtel Napoléon Lagune

    Lomé

    The Napoléon Lagune is not in the centre but its perch on a lively stretch of the Bé lagoon is outstanding. It offers a range of well-equipped (if…

  • La Douceur

    Togo

    Down a dirt track in the stadium's neighbourhood you'll find this cosy bird's nest in a proudly maintained and flowered little compound; rooms are…

  • Chez Alice

    Lomé

    This perennial favourite is run by a friendly and efficient Swiss woman. Rooms in the massive wood structure are spotless and bright; camping is available…

  • Auberge La Gueïla

    Mauritania

    A fabulous French-run place, with six charming rooms, excellent food (to be taken in the courtyard garden), a library and even a massage room for real…

  • Marie Antoinette

    Lomé

    A fantastic choice, with bright clean rooms. Extra touches like colourful wall murals in the rooms put a smile on your face each morning, as does the over…

  • Nordic Villa

    Abuja

    The Nordic Villa is a modern Scandinavian-style guesthouse that feels more like a home, with helpful staff, a calm atmosphere and good internet access. A…

  • Ledger Plaza Bissau

    Bissau

    Bissau's most luxurious hotel, the Ledger (known to taxi drivers by its former name Lybia Hotel) is where politicians, businesspeople and the small…

  • Pension Les Palmiers

    Conakry

    The doily-adorned couches, cute living room and caring owners make this one a five-heart guesthouse, if not a five-star hotel, and as such it seems to…

  • Auberge Bab Sahara

    Mauritania

    Bab Sahara has been a little slice of overlanders' heaven since 1999. There's a selection of tikits (stone huts) with air-con, caravans and tents, plus a…

  • Le Pavillon Vert

    Ouagadougou

    The stalwart 'PV' is the best backpackers' spot in Ouaga. It has competitive prices, a lively bar and restaurant, a gorgeous plant-filled garden and an…

  • Villa Rose

    Burkina Faso

    This lovely guesthouse, run by Dutch-Burkinabé couple Franca and Moctar, sits in the leafy neighbourhood of Koko, east of the centre, just off the main…

  • La Guesthouse

    Cotonou

    This adorable guesthouse, run by a helpful French couple, is one of those whispered secrets that is passed around by word of mouth. The rooms are simple…

  • Maison d'Hôtes Jeloua

    Nouakchott

    This is a lovely and deservedly popular maison d'hôtes (B&B), with a leafy garden, highly recommended restaurant and a homey and friendly vibe. The…

  • Le Wafou

    Abidjan

    If the Flintstones won the lottery and moved to West Africa, they'd live somewhere like this. Set in large grounds, Le Wafou's gorgeous bungalows take…

  • Villa Bobo

    Burkina Faso

    With its four zealously maintained rooms, prim bathrooms, atmospheric veranda, colourful garden and pool, Villa Bobo is a delight. Xavier, the French…

  • Le Calypso

    Burkina Faso

    Le Calypso's lovely rooms combine traditional adobe architecture with modern comforts and impeccable cleanliness. The huts are arranged around a beautiful…

  • Purple at the Blowfish

    Lagos

    Not only a great boutique hotel with classy and comfortable rooms, the Blowfish's restaurant Purple offers nice dining by the pool with Indian, Italian…

  • Les Jardins de Koulouba

    Ouagadougou

    A wonderfully decorated patio and a lush tropical garden, African art, spacious rooms, a fantastic location, a pool and a relaxed vibe make this lovely…

  • La Licorne

    Abidjan

    La Licorne is a pretty boutique hotel run by a friendly French family. Rooms are individually decorated, and there's wi-fi, a bar, a hot tub, a book…

  • Relais de la Porte Mayo

    Cameroon

    Streets ahead of anywhere else in town, it's frankly amazing that a place like this exists in a town like Maroua. French run, the Porte Mayo has bundles…

  • Adamaoua Hotel

    Cameroon

    This brand-new hotel is easily the best option in town: a short stroll from the station and next to the main bus companies, its sparkling fan-cooled…

  • Makaira Lodge

    São Tomé & Príncipe

    Here lies the great secret of Príncipe lodging. During research Makaira Lodge had just opened, and was putting the finishing touches on its dipping pool…

  • Lopé Hôtel

    Gabon

    Made up of 30 cottages of varying sizes, the Lopé Hôtel has a superb position overlooking a bend of the Ogooué River surrounded by dramatic hills and…

  • La Baie des Tortues Luth

    Gabon

    La Baie des Tortues, with an enviable location miles from anywhere right on the beach, has 20 thatched rooms, some elevated for sea views, some round and…

  • Pongara Lodge

    Gabon

    A remote option on the coast is the excellent Pongara Lodge, which is deep into the national park. With just six bungalows, the look and feel is rustic,…

  • Eco-Village d'Enamino

    Gabon

    On the coast 35 minutes south of Omboué by 4WD, this simple, rustic camp has just two bungalows made of local materials, each sleeping four. A great…

  • Zebrabar

    Senegal

    Around 22km south of Saint-Louis, this peaceful spot makes a great base for excursions into the Parc National de la Langue de Barbarie. Accommodation is…

  • Colonial Guest House

    Cabo Verde

    This gorgeously renovated colonial mansion facing the ocean houses the town's nicest place to stay. Run by a Danish–Cabo Verdean couple, it has rooms with…

  • Tortuga B&B

    Cabo Verde

    This heavenly little beach hideaway is a 10-minute drive or a 30-minute walk along the beach from town. The live-in Italian owners take good care of their…

  • Gîte du Lac

    Senegal

    Set on the north shore of the lake, the Gîte du Lac makes a great base when you want to get away from it all. It has attractive cabins that open onto a…

  • Kasa da Igreja

    Santo Antão

    Located just north of the small village of Chã da Igreja (heading towards the coast), this French-run charmer has four attractive rooms (the best with…

  • Mandina River Lodge

    The Gambia

    If you feel like a treat, you can stay in the forest at this exclusive and very stunning eco-retreat, an elegant marriage of lavishness and respect for…

  • Malika Surf Camp

    Dakar

    This small, Italian-run place on Yoff beach has a bohemian vibe that draws a mix of surfers, aspiring surfers and those just wanting to enjoy the beach…

  • Spinguera Eco Lodge

    Boa Vista

    Boa Vista's most magical hideaway is an abandoned fishing village converted into a stunning eco-lodge by the Italian artist owner. Inside whitewashed…

  • Residencial Chez Hujo

    Santo Antão

    The recently opened Chez Hujo has 12 brightly painted rooms, all with quality mattresses, windows overlooking greenery and private hot-water bathrooms …

  • Casa D-Mar

    Santo Antão

    This delightful five-room guesthouse offers comfortably furnished rooms and a lovely terrace with sea views, not to mention a warm welcome provided by the…

  • Quicksilver Boardriders Dakar

    Dakar

    Tucked behind the Quicksilver shop is this appealing guesthouse, which has the hip-but-laid-back surfer vibe you'd expect from the well-known clothing…

  • Casa no Caminho

    Santo Antão

    North of Chã da Igreja, the German-run Casa no Caminho consists of three attractive bungalows, all with fine views. The pleasant garden is strung with…