The further up the mountain you get from Kailua-Kona, the artsier, more residential and more rural (not to mention cooler and damper) it gets, until all of these qualities mush into one misty bohemian village: Holualoa. Perched at 1400ft on the lush slopes of Mt Hualalai, this town – village, really – has come a long way from its days as a tiny, one-donkey coffee crossroads. Today Holualoa’s ramshackle buildings...
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