Waspám, the end of the line in Nicaragua and as about as remote as you can get here, is a poor and developmentally challenged place that nevertheless still enjoys a simple beauty: children at play, twittering flocks of parakeets in the trees, and dugout canoes plying the edges of Waspám’s biggest attraction, the lazy brown waters of the Río Coco.
Known as Wangki in Miskito, the Río Coco is the longest river in Central America and links some 116 Miskito communities that run from the rainforested interior to the Atlantic coastal marshlands. This makes Waspám, its epicenter, the cultural, geographic and economic heart of the Mosquitia. The river also forms a natural border with Honduras, a fact most Miskitos prefer to ignore. You shouldn’t. If you plan on crossing into Honduras, get your passport stamped at Bilwi Migración.