The westerly outpost of Crookhaven feels so remote that you imagine it's more easily reached by boat than by road. And so it is for some people – in summer there's a big yachting presence. Outside summer it's very quiet.
In its heyday Crookhaven's natural harbour was an important anchorage and communications hub with a population of 700 (today it's around 30). Mail from America was collected here, and a telegraph line to Cork was installed in 1863, delivering news of transatlantic shipping.
It's worth the trip to enjoy a meal in the rustic bar of the Crookhaven Inn, a popular local watering hole. In summer there are picnic tables outdoors, and trad music sessions in the evenings.