The Sheep's Head Peninsula has a rugged charm all its own – and yes, there are plenty of sheep. The road west from Durrus passes through Ahakista (Atha an Chiste), which has a couple of pubs including the charming, tin-roofed Ahakista Bar, aka the Tin Pub. At the back, it has flowering gardens which tumble down to the waterfront.
Beyond Ahakista the landscape gets progressively more barren and rocky as the road gets narrower and more twisty. A link road with terrific views, called the Goat's Path Rd, runs between Kilcrohane and Gortnakilly (on the south and north coasts respectively) over the western flank of Mt Seefin (345m), which offers an exhilarating 1km stride to the summit.