Welcome to Todos Santos Cuchumatán

Unusually for the highlands, it's the men's dress here that is the more eye-catching. Men wear red-and-white-striped trousers, little straw hats with blue ribbons, jackets with multicolored stripes and thick woven collars. Women's cortes are navy with a royal blue pinstripe. It's a close-knit but friendly community, which suffered great violence during Guatemala's civil war, and although it's photogenic, people are very sensitive about tourists blithely snapping away. Saturday is the main market day; there's a smaller market on Wednesday.

If you're coming to Todos Santos in the wet season (mid-May to November), bring warm clothes, as it's cold up here, especially at night.

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