Welcome to Uspantán
Founded by the Uspanteko Maya around the 6th century AD, it was originally dubbed Tz'unun Kaab' – place of hummingbirds. The severe repression it experienced during the armed conflict of the 1980s forged indigenous leader Rigoberta Menchú, who grew up a five-hour walk through the mountains in the village of Laj Chimel. Cardamom is grown here, and pigs and sheep are raised on the surrounding slopes.
As ever, life centres around the central plaza; the covered market streets around its edge are worth exploring.