Most tourists only hurry through Omalos, 36km south of Hania, on their way to Samaria Gorge 4km further on, but for those inclined toward solitude or the outdoors, this plateau settlement warrants a longer stay. During summer, the air is bracingly cool here compared with the steamy coast and there are great mountain walks offering magnificent views, birding, caving and climbing.
Omalos itself is little more than a few hotels on either side of the main road cutting across the plateau. After the morning Samaria rush, there’s hardly anyone on the plateau except goats and shepherds. It is practically deserted in winter.