Erzurum
More enticing than many a museum, this trio of closely clustered 18th-century houses has been forged into a warren of stone-walled rooms and alcoves so…
Must-see restaurants in Northeastern Anatolia
Far Northeast
The most colourful restaurant on Doğubayazıt's pedestrianised main street, Dağkapı Ciğerisi is laden with intensely coloured textiles, interspersed by…
Şavşat
Backed by beautiful Alpine scenes reminiscent of Austria, this appealing roadside property specialises in succulent home-reared trout washed down with…
Erzurum
Erzurum's choice meat-eating experience is a two-storey building with carved stone pillars and recessed ceilings festooned with astonishingly rich…
Northeastern Anatolia
Well appointed and idyllically located, little Olgunlar Cafe serves up dishes such as trout (₺16), köfte (meatballs, ₺30) and mıhlama (a local melted…
Far Northeast
No need for a menu in this utterly unpretentious family restaurant which sits right at the side of a pretty bay: just order a portion of the superb fried…
Far Northeast
This popular family restaurant specialises in home-farmed trout served on raised balconies and at open-air tables right by the waterside of a small, tree…
Kars
Widely reckoned Kars' top restaurant, Kaz Evi specialises, as the name suggests, in goose (kaz): fried in chunks on rice (₺40), as sautéed foie gras (₺50)…
Kars
Bringing a rustic, country-kitchen vibe to a formerly bland shop space, Hanımeli specialises in home-style cooking influenced by the broader Caucasian…
Far Northeast
Dine with an amazing view at Atmosfer, a semicircle of glass fronted with two open terraces, all sharing a spectacular 180° panorama that encompasses the…
Far Northeast
Much the grandest restaurant on the lake, Kuzey Yıldızrı offers lake fish, seafood and various good meze dishes from a raised position the north shore,…
Far Northeast
An excellent choice for barbequed meats and tasty aubergine meze plates washed down with shots of rakı, Hasir is upstairs in an 1898 stone building facing…
Erzurum
At the base of the main gondola in Palandöken, this glass-fronted cafe stares straight up the main pistes, serves proper espressos and, most…
Erzurum
The tantalising display of treats glitters like a jewellery store in this slick pastry shop and ice-cream parlour. Head upstairs and you'll find an…
Erzurum
Erzurum has dozens of places for caǧ kebap, but Çagin is a definite cut above the pack. Female friendly, there's smart, hexagonal-themed decor, an English…
Erzurum
Bright and spacious, this stone-walled family kebap barbecue has a curious carpeted corner in a half-cellar beneath what appears to be a giant fireplace…
Kars
Pushkin's poem Unknown Country ushers diners into a Russian-era stone building decorated with samovars where the quality meals focus on lamb and goose…
Kars
This friendly, unassuming establishment offers delicious home-style local dishes, fresh daily soups (such as sorrel, lentil or a cool yoghurt-and-herbs…
Northeastern Anatolia
Climb the stairs behind the tourist office then push open the embossed copper door to find this lovely place for simple local dishes at excellent prices…
Far Northeast
The ground-floor entrance is just a bare room displaying the day's spread of pre-cooked lokanta staples (the double-stuffed aubergine is recommended). But…
Northeastern Anatolia
Barbecued on an open fire, the cağ kebap (mutton grilled on a horizontal spit) is on a par with any in town, but it's the riverside terrace at the back…
Erzurum
Hushed, high ceilinged and quaintly anachronistic with its bow-tied waiters and curtained windows, this place has been in business since 1928 and is…
Northeastern Anatolia
Food is likely to be a Hobson's choice – probably menemen (scrambled egg and tomato) and a simple salad – but Barhal's little cafe is a loveably rustic…
Kars
Exuding a subdued elegance, this upstairs restaurant is the place to head if you want beer or wine with your meal. The menu offers plentiful mezes,…
Kars
This long-serving semi-smart stalwart serves tasty and unusual regional and Turkish dishes including alinazik (aubergine purée with yoghurt and ground…
