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Chungcheongnam-do (충청남도) tends to fly under the radar of most travellers, and that's unfortunate. Some of the best nature within striking distance of Seoul is here. Gorgeous Daecheon Beach is popular, especially during the Boryeong Mud Festival, while those preferring solitude can hop on a ferry to one of the nearby islands. To the north is Taeanhaean National Marine Park, dotted with more islands, beaches and 150km of trails that flit in and out of coastline.
In terms of big-city experiences, Daejeon, the capital manqué, offers the province's best urban diversions, while Sejong, the country's administrative centre, doesn't yet have much to draw tourists. More interesting are the small towns: Gongju and Buyeo were once capitals of the ancient Baekje dynasty, and have retained a surprising number of old fortresses, tombs and relics.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Chungcheongnam-do.
Eat
This 24-hour soup joint is an all-around pleaser: cheap and delicious, good for both groups and solo diners. The specialty is haejangguk – known as 'hangover soup' – and there are several varieties on the menu. It's at the end of a strip of restaurants near a public footbath in Yuseong.
Eat
You can't say you've done Daejeon without trying gopchang, beef or pork intestines, grilled golden brown. Many people love the chewy texture of ring-shaped innards. Others say they taste like a pencil eraser. This shop in Dunsan-dong is a favourite with the university crowd, so expect flowing beer and a bon vivant atmosphere.
Eat
Choose from a range of hearty set menus with shabu kalguksu (샤브칼국수), where you cook your own meat and noodles in a spicy mushroom and vegetable soup. More elaborate sets come with sangchussam (상추쌈), grilled meats wrapped in vegetable leaves. Look for a mushroom-headed caricature giving the thumbs up, and the picture menu out front.
Eat
Daejeon's favourite Indian joint is located in Dunsan-dong and does authentic classics, from mild palak paneer to spicy chicken vindaloo. From the Government Complex metro station, head left down Daedeok-daero and look for the restaurant on your left, past Emart, which is across the street on your right.
Eat
This restaurant serves plenty of Korean comfort food, such as kimchi jjigae ( kimchi stew), galbitang (beef-rib soup) and bibimbap (rice with vegetables, meat and egg).
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