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Chungcheongnam-do

Chungcheongnam-do (충청남도) tends to fly under the radar of most travellers, and that's unfortunate. Some of the best nature within striking distance of Seoul is here. Gorgeous Daecheon Beach is popular, especially during the Boryeong Mud Festival, while those preferring solitude can hop on a ferry to one of the nearby islands. To the north is Taeanhaean National Marine Park, dotted with more islands, beaches and 150km of trails that flit in and out of coastline.

In terms of big-city experiences, Daejeon, the capital manqué, offers the province's best urban diversions, while Sejong, the country's administrative centre, doesn't yet have much to draw tourists. More interesting are the small towns: Gongju and Buyeo were once capitals of the ancient Baekje dynasty, and have retained a surprising number of old fortresses, tombs and relics.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Chungcheongnam-do.

  • See

    Gongsan-seong

    This stunning hilltop fortress is a reminder of a time when Gongju (then called Ungjin) was Baekje’s capital. After entering through the grand stone Geumseoru West Gate, you can walk along the fortress' perimeter and on its wall. Along the way you'll pass numerous pavilions, including Gongbungnu and Gwangbongnu, rebuilt according to archaeological evidence of their original structures. The best views are in the northwest section overlooking the river. In the evening the fortress is lit by floodlights.

  • See

    Gyeryongsan National Park

    One of Korea's smallest parks, Gyeryongsan means ‘Rooster Dragon Mountain’ because locals thought the mountain resembled a dragon with a rooster’s head. At the eastern entrance is the temple Donghak-sa; at the western entrance, Gap-sa. A trail between the two temples runs along streams and small waterfalls (and a few peaks if you wish). The total hike takes between four and six hours, depending on the route. There is excellent English-language signage throughout.

  • See

    Busosan-seong

    This mountain fortress covers the forested hill of Buso-san (106m) and once shielded the Baekje capital of Sabi within its walls. Structures such as the Banwollu Pavilion offer lovely views of the surrounding countryside. Sandy paths weave through pine trees past temples and pavilions.

  • See

    Mallipo Beach

    Though Mallipo is seeing more and more development every year, it's still a fine stretch of sand, a gentle crescent bookended by piney headlands. It's a 15-minute walk from here to the quieter Cheollipo Beach.

  • See

    Gungnamji Pond

    In July, this pond explodes with colour as thousands of lotus flowers bloom. The Buyeo SeoDong Lotus Festival that month also transforms the surrounding park into a busy place with activities and exhibits around the pond. It's located in Seodong Park (서동공원), which is in the south end of town and close to the General Gyebaek statue.

  • See

    Gongju National Museum

    This excellent museum exhibits treasures discovered in the tomb of King Muryeong, including the distinctive gold diadem ornaments that you’ll see images of all over Gongju. While only a few hundred of the 2906 tomb artefacts are on display here, together with some videos (with English subtitles) they paint a vivid picture of Baekje culture. The museum is a 15-minute, signposted walk north from the royal tombs.

  • See

    Donghak-sa

    Donghak-sa is noteworthy for being one of Korea's few nunneries. Just before the temple, look for the trail that leads you on an easy one-hour trek up to the Brother & Sister Pagodas.

  • See

    Magok-sa

    Magok-sa has had its buildings restored and reconstructed through the years, but unlike most temples, its extant buildings are being allowed to age gracefully, and there are several atmospheric halls, stumpy pagodas and pavilions. The elaborate entry gates feature colourful statues of various deities and bodhisattvas. Cross the ‘mind-washing bridge’ to reach the main hall, behind which stands a rare two-storey prayer hall, Daeungbojeon. The temple is located in a pretty setting 24km outside Gongju.

  • See

    Cheollipo Arboretum

    The Cheollipo Arboretum is among Asia's top botanical institutions, with a collection of more than 13,000 species from over 60 countries, laid out with diligent care across 64 hectares of lush coastal property. Only a fraction of it is open to the public, but even that is spectacular – particularly in spring when the magnolias bloom.

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