La Parguera is a strange place. Here is a seaside tourist town with no appealing coastline, a town that invested millions on a smart new seaside malecón but still appears deserted, a town that hauls in visitors to witness its bioluminescent bay, and in ferrying them to see it, is slowly degrading its main attraction through motorboat-oil pollution.
This lazy locale is so laid back it's practically asleep. Its chief aficionados are vacationing Puerto Ricans and US expats who spend most of the morning in bed and most of the day sampling the world-class fishing and diving. But at night the same folks will be popping open cans of Medalla at a string of bars which erupt out of the daytime languor.
The ramshackle mix of old and new buildings has a chaotic charm, from the houses on stilts over the water to condo developments on the upland fields.