Named after the accomplished Italian grandmother of Sir Rocco Forte of the eponymous luxury hotel group, Irene (part of neighbouring Hotel Savoy) is a dazzling contemporary bistro with a pavement terrace (heated in winter) overlooking iconic Piazza della Repubblica. Interior design is retro-chic 1950s and celebrity chef Fulvio Pierangelini cooks up playful, utterly fabulous bistro cuisine.
From the shiny Sicilian tomato served at the start of every meal (rip open with your hands and douse in olive oil) to the caramelised walnuts and cinnamon cookies accompanying coffee, dining here is a treat. Look for Tuscan bean soup with sage ravioli and caramelised celery, sea bass with artichokes or an organic veal burger perhaps and – for dolci – pumpkin ravioli with persimmon-spiced ice cream. Breakfast is served until 10.30am, lunch from 12.30pm to 3.30pm, afternoon tea (€18) until 6.30pm, and dinner from 7.30pm.