Popular with locals who sip coffee standing up at the long marble bar, this is the most famous of the historic cafes on the city's old Roman forum. Gilli has been serving delectable cakes, chocolates, fruit tartlets and millefoglie (lighter-than-light vanilla or custard slice) since 1733. It moved to this square in 1910 and has a beautifully preserved art-nouveau interior.
Don't be surprised to pay three times as much for a drink sitting down – inside or in the conservatory-style, glassed-in terrace with prime square view – rather than at the bar; a cappuccino costs €1.40 standing up and €5.50 when served at a table.