The desolate and beautiful Hardangervidda plateau, part of the 3430-sq-km Hardangervidda National Park (Norway's largest), ranges across an otherworldly tundra landscape that's the southernmost refuge of the Arctic fox (the natural population of which has increased through reintroduction programs) and home to Norway's largest herd of wild reindeer. Long a trade and travel route connecting eastern and western Norway, it's now crossed by the main railway and road routes between Oslo and Bergen.
Reindeer numbers have dropped in recent years, from a high of 19,000 in 1998 to around 7000. This fall in numbers is, however, part of a program of resource management by the park's authorities, as a ban on hunting, until recently, meant that herd numbers became too large.
Apart from Finse and Geilo, Hardangervidda National Park is accessible from Rjukan and Eidfjord; there's an excellent national park centre at the latter.