Must-see nightlife in Kii Peninsula

  • Fushiogami-chaya

    Along the Nakahechi trail halfway between Hosshinmon-ōji and Kumano Hongū Taisha – about an hour's walk from each – is this inviting pit stop run by a…

  • Cafe Alma

    Get coffee (¥300), castella (Nagasaki-style sponge cake; ¥250) and a seat on the terrace, across the street from the Kumano Hongū Heritage Centre.