Teahouse in Hongū

Along the Nakahechi trail halfway between Hosshinmon-ōji and Kumano Hongū Taisha – about an hour's walk from each – is this inviting pit stop run by a gang of local ladies. It serves homemade shiso (perilla-leaf) juice, which comes out a shocking-pink colour, and coffee brewed with water from the sulphur-rich springs of Yunomine. Seating is on benches out the front.