Welcome to Arquipélago dos Bijagós
Protected by swift tides, treacherous sandbanks and the Unesco heritage fund, the Bijagós, a matriarchal people, eluded Portuguese control until the 1930s. Their rites and ceremonies remain largely hidden from visitors, conducted far away from the beaches in the heart of the forests.
You need to bring either time or money, as transport to and between the islands is either difficult or pricey. Life swings to the rhythm of the tide, as does the availability of boats – and mind the stingrays lurking in the water.