Welcome to San Andrés Xecul

Inside, a carpet of candles illuminates bleeding effigies of Christ. Above the altar, 'Fisher of Men' is written in blue neon, a reference to the town's patron saint.

Take a walk of the town with visits to huipil embroiderers, and dyers and candle makers, continuing up to El Calvario, the little yellow church at the top of the hill. Maya ceremonies, with plenty of burnt offerings, are still held at the triple-cross altar alongside, and the panoramic view across the valley is phenomenal.

Friday is the big market day. The annual festival, on November 30, features tightrope walkers.

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