If you sail in by ferry, Roscoff (Rosko in Breton) provides a captivating first glimpse of Brittany, with granite houses dating from the 16th century lining the pretty docks, a superb Gothic church and a surrounding landscape of emerald-green fields full of cauliflowers, onions and artichokes. This onion-producing region gave rise to the 'Johnnies' who made a lucrative itinerant trade exporting their agricultural produce to the UK, where they travelled the roads by bicycle.
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