Must-see restaurants in Provence

  • La Cantine de Nour d'Egypte is also the Egyptian Cultural Centre

    La Cantine de Nour d'Egypte

    Marseille

    Nestled within a welcoming Egyptian cultural centre, this cheery restaurant serves dishes of thick Egyptian flatbread, chunky hummus, creamy aubergine…

  • L'Esperantine de Marseille the chocolatiers

    L'Esperantine

    Marseille

    This award-winning artisan chocolatier uses olive oil to achieve an otherworldly creaminess in its products. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself…

  • Café de Niozelles

    Alpes-de-Haute-Provence

    For just-like-mama-made-it French cuisine, it’s worth the 5km drive from Forcalquier to this unapologetically old-school bistro in Niozelles. You’ll need…

  • Auberge de la Loube

    The Luberon

    You won’t get a more honest Provençal lunch than at Maurice Leporati’s roadside inn, where the feast always starts with wicker trays filled with hors d…

  • L'Intramuros

    The Luberon

    What fun this place is: an offbeat French restaurant that's stocked to the gunwales with the owners' bric-a-brac finds, from vintage movie posters,…

  • L'Aile ou la Cuisse

    Bouches-du-Rhône

    As Gallic as a tricolor Citröen 2CV, this long-established address is run by the Ricci family, also proprietors of Gus and Da Peppe. With its burnished…

  • La Cuisine des Anges

    Bouches-du-Rhône

    You can't really go too far wrong at the Angels' Kitchen – at least if you're looking for solid, no-nonsense Provençal cooking just like grande-mère would…

  • Poissonnerie Laurent

    Cassis

    Run by brothers Laurent and Eric, this fish shop-cum-seafood restaurant has been a fixture on the Cassis waterfront for decades, and it shows no sign of…

  • Les Petites Tables

    Alpes-de-Haute-Provence

    This Provençal restaurant at the Ecomusée l’Olivier near Volx is only open for lunch, but it's well worth a detour (and if you're visiting the museum it's…

  • La Table de Pablo

    The Luberon

    Run by top chef Thomas Gallardo, the contemporary feel of this renowned 'semi-gastronomic' restaurant belies its country setting. Funky globe bulbs,…

  • Le Bistrot

    Aix-en-Provence

    Locals pack into the tiny vaulted dining room of this hard-to-find place for the superb-value lunch menus. All the bistro boxes are ticked: red-and-white…

  • Fleurs de Thym

    Cassis

    With its open-sided fireplace and pretty, art-filled dining room, this small restaurant makes a good refuge from the harbour-side hustle. It also provides…

  • La Boulangerie de Mamie Jane

    The Luberon

    Those short of time or money in Gordes should follow the locals downhill along rue Baptistin Picca to this pocket-sized boulangerie (bakery), which has…

  • Ginette et Marcel

    Avignon

    Set on one of Avignon's most happening plane-tree-shaded squares, this vintage cafe styled like a 1950s grocery is a charming spot to hang out and people…

  • Café Populaire

    Marseille

    Vintage furniture, latticed blinds, old books and antique soft drink bottles lend a retro air to this style-conscious, 1950s-styled jazz comptoir (counter…

  • Refuge du Lac d'Allos

    Parc National du Mercantour

    What a spot this lovely lakeside inn has, plonked at 2220m by the water's edge, with mountains on all sides. In situ for more than a century, it's a…

  • Le Réfectoire

    Arles

    You won't find a much better lunch venue than this convivial canteen within the emergent cultural centre Fondation Luma. The food is light and colourful,…

  • Mas de la Bonoty

    Vaucluse

    It's worth getting lost to find this 18th-century farmhouse-hotel, which has earned its reputation as a laudable Provençal restaurant. Menus feature…

  • Le Martagon

    Parc National du Mercantour

    A smart modern restaurant-with-rooms in the quiet village of Villars-Colmars, perfect for a lunch or dinner stop, with mountain specialities such as…

  • Les Filles du Pâtissier

    Bouches-du-Rhône

    Particularly perfect on sultry summer nights, this upbeat, colourful cafe has vintage tables filling one corner of a delightful car-free square in the old…

  • Le Potager

    The Luberon

    Located at the lovely Bastide du Jas B&B, this refined restaurant has proved popular both with the locals and the foodie guides (it recently received a…

  • La Casita

    Camargue

    The charismatic couple who run this unpretentious address, with cartwheels for tables, cook up the catch of the day à la plancha (grilled) for eight…

  • Le Fournil

    The Luberon

    In the middle of town next to the fountain, ‘The Oven’ is another of Bonnieux’ most consistent tables. There’s a choice of settings: the swish interior …

  • Calypso – Lou Santen

    Camargue

    A seasonal regular, this beach restaurant shaded by a reed pergola provides the perfect lookout to the Plage Ouest and the Mediterranean beyond. Lounge at…

  • Le Môlé Passédat

    Marseille

    On the top floor of Marseille’s flagship museum, MuCEM, Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passedat cooks up exquisite French fare alongside big blue views of…

  • Chez Jeannot

    Marseille

    Occupying a magical spot on the little harbour of Vallon des Auffes, this old favourite has a split-level layout and picture windows overlooking the boats…

  • Les Buffets du Vieux Port

    Marseille

    This is no ordinary all-you-can-eat: a sleek modern dining room spreads around a buffet overflowing with Italian, Spanish and (above all) Provençal…

  • Fou de Fafa

    Avignon

    A typical French bistro, Fou de Fafa's strength lies in simplicity – fresh ingredients, bright flavours, convivial surroundings (and a notably early…

  • Au Jardin des Carmes

    Avignon

    There's one standout reason to lunch at this homey restaurant, and that's the delightful courtyard garden, shaded by sails, tall bamboo and climbing…

  • Le Cafe du Village

    Vaucluse

    After a spot of weekend browsing in the antique markets, this convivial cafe is where everyone heads for a no-fuss lunch packed with French flavours. The…

  • La Bidule

    Aix-en-Provence

    Places come and go around the Forum des Cardeurs, but ‘The Thingy’ is an enduring, cheap and cheerful favourite, with flowery PVC tablecloths, a vast…

  • Le Galoubet

    Arles

    Eighteenth-century stone walls, a wooden bar, a fireplace, friendly staff and French/Provençal food that's not afraid to play with Asian ingredients like…

  • La Grange

    Camargue

    If you've developed a desire to get closer to the Camargue's bulls by eating them, then head to the Grange, an ode to Camargue's gardians, with bull…

  • E.A.T.

    Avignon

    Weird name; great food. This back-alley bistro near place Crillon is a strong local's tip. It's very French, but borrows flavours and spices freely:…

  • La Cantinetta

    Marseille

    This classy Italian trattoria on the buzzy cours Julien is perennially popular. All the pasta here is homemade, and ingredients are sourced from Italy…

  • Bistrot Le 5

    The Luberon

    Lunch with a view? Mais oui – and what a view. On the village's edge, this popular bistro boasts a grandstand, tree-shaded terrace overlooking classic…

  • Fadoli et Fadola

    Arles

    Well-stuffed sandwiches – made to order, frotté à l'ail (rubbed with garlic) and dripping with silken AOC Vallée des Baux olive oil – lure the crowds to…

  • Chez Étienne

    Marseille

    Family photos and veteran service staff hint at the longevity of this Le Panier favourite, known for authentic, hand-thrown pizza, topped with homemade…

  • Au Chineur

    Vaucluse

    The best of the roll-call of bistros lining the canals, this quintessentially French bistro is a perfect place for lunch, complete with the checked…

  • Le Rhul

    Marseille

    This long-standing classic in a 1940s seaside hotel with Mediterranean views has plenty of atmosphere, however kitschy. Although this is one of the most…