Most travellers head west from Carmarthen, leaving the lush green hills and valleys of northern Carmarthenshire relatively unexplored. The River Teifi forms much of the border with Ceredigion, and a particularly pretty stretch of the river passes through this historic market town. Although there's not much to see in the town itself, there's a cluster of interesting sights in the surrounding countryside.
Three miles downstream, the village of Cenarth occupies a picturesque spot by an old stone bridge, at the foot of a stretch of rapids. Near the south side of the bridge is Ffynnon Llawddog, a holy well linked to an early Celtic saint. It's one of many such sites throughout Wales that were popular during medieval times for their supposedly curative powers, although many have ancient pre-Christian origins.