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Ribatejo

Literally meaning ‘Above the Tejo’, Ribatejo is the only Portuguese province that doesn’t border either Spain or the open ocean. A string of Templar castles are proof of its strategic importance, though these days its clout is economic, thanks to industry along the Tejo and the rich agricultural plains that spread out from the river’s banks. This is also bull country – most of Portugal’s fighters are bred in and around the capital, Santarém.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Ribatejo.

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Convento de Cristo
Wrapped in splendour and mystery, the Knights Templar held enormous power in Portugal from the 12th to 16th centuries, and largely bankrolled the Age of Discoveries. Their headquarters sit on wooded slopes above the town and are enclosed within 12th-century walls. The Convento de Cristo is a stony expression of magnificence, founded in 1160 by Gualdim Pais. It has chapels, cloisters and choirs in diverging styles, added over the centuries by successive kings and Grand Masters.
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Casa Museu Passos Canavarro
Right by the Portas do Sol and sharing some of the same privileged views, this is a unique place to visit for lovers of art and beauty. The historic house, once home to 19th-century liberal politician Passos Manuel, is stocked with artistic treasures and curios, from Japanese furniture and netsuke (miniature sculptures) to 16th-century maps and collections of 20th-century art.
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Aqueduto de Pegões
This astonishing aqueduct, striding towards the monastery from the northwest, was built between 1593 and 1613 to supply water to thirsty monks. Its 180 arches, some of which are double-decker, are thought to have been designed by Filippo Terzi. It’s best seen just off the Leiria road, 2.3km from town, where it winds along a dramatic turn. You are free to climb about the top at will.
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Jardim das Portas do Sol
Occupying the site of the Moorish citadel, the Portas do Sol garden offers utterly majestic views over the Rio Tejo and the great spread of plains emanating from it. The garden’s shady walks make a fine option for a picnic or afternoon linger. It's particularly spectacular at sundown.
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Igreja de Marvila
Dating from the 12th century but with 16th-century additions, this endearing little church has a fine, twisted Manueline doorway, while the interior is completely awash in brilliant, dramatically patterned azulejos dating from the 17th century.
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Museu Luso-Hebraico Abraham Zacuto
On a charming cobbled lane in the old town, you’ll find the country’s best-preserved medieval synagogue. Built between 1430 and 1460, it was used for only a few years before Dom Manuel’s convert-or-leave edict of 1497 forced most Jews to do the latter. The synagogue subsequently served as prison, chapel, hayloft and warehouse until classified as a national monument in 1921.
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Castelo de Almourol
Like the stuff of legend, 10-towered Castelo de Almourol stands tantalisingly close to shore but just out of reach in the Rio Tejo. The castle is 5km from Constância. Boats (€2.50, five minutes) leave every 10 minutes from a riverside landing directly opposite the castle. Once on the island, a short walk leads up to the ramparts, where you’re free to linger as long as you like.
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Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes
These bucolic 39-hectare gardens – linked to the Convento de Cristo – were founded by the Order of Christ and once served as a contemplative space and apple orchard for the monastic order. Indeed today it is a finely manicured and peaceful walled forest well worth exploration.
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Igreja da Santa Maria Graça
This early-15th-century church, with its delicately carved facade of multilayered arches, is a Santarém jewel. Inside, a rose window spills light across the beautifully spare interior of stone columns and white walls. Note the tombs of Pedro Álvares Cabral (the ‘discoverer’ of Brazil, who lived in Santarém) and Dom Pedro de Menezes, the first governor of the Ceuta e do Império (City and of the Empire; Vila Real).