Pasar Malam

The best dinner options turn up at dusk: a couple of warungs and half a dozen gas-lit carts at the old wharf grill and fry seafood on the cheap. In the centre of town at the southern fork of Jl Ahmad Yani are more street eats, like sate ayam (chicken satay) and bakso (noodle soup), from 10,000Rp.