A burly slice of heaven, this remote estancia sits tucked into the shores of Lago San Martín. Lodgings are comfortable but not luxuriant. The casco has six rooms, each with a private bathroom, a stone fireplace and a small collection of literature on the region, and there's an independent cabin called casa condorito. Rates include all meals and excursions.
Even for Patagonia this landscape seems oversized – from the massive turquoise lake (known as O’Higgins on its Chilean side), to the 13 kinds of orchids and craggy cliffs where condors wheel on the wind.
The estancia occupies a curious footnote in Patagonian history. Its puesto (homestead) La Nana was home to an infamous Brit named Jimmy Radburn, who kidnapped a Tehuelche woman named Juana (with her consent – she had already been sold off by her father to pay a gambling debt) and came to this ultra-remote spot at the turn of the 20th century to raise a family. At the time of research La Nana was only accessible by a day-long hike or ride from the main casco (ranch house).
Riding enthusiasts could do a week on horseback without running out of fresh terrain, and the mountain refuge of La Nana provides a base camp deeper in the wilderness. Trails are apt for hiking (river crossings should always be made with a guide). A day trip to the condorera (where condors nest) is a highlight.
Meals include fresh vegetables from the greenhouse and meat from the ranch. Visitors can drive on their own or take a five-hour transfer from El Calafate (US$140 per person), with set departures on Monday and Friday at 8am, returning at 3pm. El Cóndor is located three hours from Tres Lagos, 118km off RN 40, on the way to El Chaltén. At the time of research there was no legal border crossing here.
