This elegant restaurant with royal-red canopy and classic, white-tablecloth decor is the traditional choice near place d'Italie. Honest-to-goodness, invariably meaty, dishes such as roast partridge or venison with a red wine-poached pear are heartily proportioned and delicious. End with one of the sweet house specialities, Grand Marnier soufflé or pain perdu brioche à l'ananas (French toast with pineapple).
If you can't snag a table (reservations recommended), try your luck at its casual sibling, Le Comptoir Marguery, next door.
