Southeast of Nuoro rises the great limestone massif of the Supramonte, its sheer walls like an iron curtain just beyond Oliena. Despite its intimidating aspect, it’s actually not as high as it seems – its peak, Monte Corrasi, only reaches 1463m – but it is impressively wild, the bare limestone plateau pitted with ravines and ragged defiles. The raw, uncompromising landscape is made all the more thrilling by its one-time notoriety as the heart of Sardinia’s bandit country.
The Supramonte provides some magnificent hiking. But because much of the walking is over limestone, there are often few discernible tracks to follow, and in spring and autumn you should carefully check the weather conditions. You can engage a local guide in towns throughout the region, including Oliena, Dorgali and Baunei.