Must-see restaurants in Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria

  • Oi Marì

    Matera

    In Sasso Barisano, this lofty and convivial cavern is styled as a Neapolitan pizzeria. It has a great, cheery atmosphere with excellent, substantial…

  • La Cantina

    Alberobello

    Although tourists have discovered this place, located to the side of a little Doric temple, it has maintained the high standards established back in 1958…

  • Il Paesello

    Cosenza

    Beloved of the locals, this unpretentious trattoria is one of Cosenza's best. Simple, robust dishes such as fagioli con cozze (beans with mussels),…

  • Da Cesare

    Basilicata

    On the main coastal highway in the village of Cersuta (about 5km north of Maratea), the flower-bedecked Da Cesare is worth seeking out for its simple,…

  • Taverna Al Cantinone

    Vieste

    Al Cantinone is a convivial, welcoming place set in a deep, vaulted room. Pugliese classics are rendered with aplomb, and there are more unusual dishes …

  • Ristorante Calabria Bella

    Cosenza

    Traditional Calabrian cuisine, such as cavatelli con cozze e fagioli (pasta with mussels and beans) and grigliata mista di carne (mixed grilled meats), is…

  • Pescobar

    Bari

    Fish sandwiches, salads and grilled seafood combine with a decent selection of Puglian wine and Italian craft beer at this compact corner spot. Either eat…

  • Gran Caffè

    Martina Franca

    With a broad communal bar, ever-hissing espresso machines and outdoor tables aligned towards busy Piazza XX Settembre, this is the quintessential Italian…

  • Vecchia Vieste

    Vieste

    Look beyond the stony, cavernous interior of this modest-seeming restaurant to find what is possibly the best homemade, hand-shaped orecchiette in Puglia…

  • Cèsare

    Reggio Calabria

    The most popular gelateria in town is in a modest green kiosk at the end of the lungomare. Try the subtle citrus zing of the bergamotto flavour,…

  • Al Pinturicchio

    Tropea

    Recommended by the locals, this restaurant in a smartly whitewashed cellar in the old town has a romantic ambience, candlelit tables and a solid…

  • La Taverna del Lupus

    Promontorio del Gargano

    The 'Tavern of the Wolf' is located in a large exposed-brick cellar with jaunty tablecloths and an enthusiastic young staff. The crispy wood-fired pizzas…

  • Osteria del Centro

    Calabria

    Providing an elegant upper town alternative to the cafes and restaurants in Chianalea, this 2018 opening comes recommended by locals for its excellent…

  • Natale

    Lecce

    This gelateria, one of Lecce's best, has an array of fabulous confectionery. Anything made with pistachios is likely to be delicious.

  • Architiello

    Puglia

    A class act with a sea-view terrace, this place specialises in – what else? – fresh fish.

  • Stone

    Matera

    Stone is where you go to find young company or late-night grub (or both). Cavernous (like everywhere in Matera), its brightly lit interior has been given…

  • Paglionico Vini e Cucina

    Bari

    This long-established Barese osteria (casual tavern) features no menu, just a chalkboard displaying what's cooking that day. It's all salt-of-the-earth…

  • L'Osteria degli Amici

    Cosenza

    There's no sea in Cosenza, yet the seafood is spot on at this diminutive family restaurant just off the city's main pedestrian street. With Sicily so…

  • Le Botteghe

    Matera

    Proudly proclaiming itself to be the first of its kind in Sasso Barisano, this informal restaurant set in arched whitewashed rooms has been trading since…

  • Osteria Al Duomo

    Vieste

    Tucked away in a picturesque narrow alley in the heart of the old town, this welcoming osteria has a cosy cave-like interior and outdoor seating under a…

  • La Locanda di Federico

    Bari

    With domed ceilings, archways and medieval-style artwork on the walls, this restaurant oozes atmosphere, and a quiet (justified) confidence in its classic…

  • Trattoria Nonna Tetti

    Lecce

    A warmly inviting restaurant, this good-value trattoria is known for regional classics. As is proper to Puglia's 'cuisine of the poor', it's often the…

  • La Talpa

    Matera

    'The Mole' has burrowed itself comfortably inside one of Sasso Barisano's caverns, creating a rustic dining experience. With plates of Lucanian (aka…

  • Caffè Duomo

    Gallipoli

    For good Gallipoli spumone (layered ice cream with candied fruit and nuts) and refreshing granite (ices made with coffee, fresh fruit or locally grown…

  • Osteria del Tempo Perso

    Ostuni

    This laid-back place harnesses the best of the region's produce, from Martina Franca's capocollo (cured pork neck) to whatever's been hauled from the…

  • La Bella Idrusa

    Otranto

    You can't miss this pizzeria right by the huge Porta Terra as you enter the historic centre. Despite the tourist-trap location, the food doesn't lack…

  • Il Giardino

    Brindisi

    Established more than 40 years ago in a restored 15th-century palazzo, sophisticated Il Giardino serves refined seafood and meat dishes in a delightful…

  • La Caffetteria

    Basilicata

    The outdoor seating at this cafe in Maratea Borgo's central piazza is ideal for people-watching. The cafe serves snacks such as panini and crostata with…

  • Soul Kitchen

    Matera

    This cavernous restaurant with sharp colour accents is a favourite with visitors to Matera, but we were slightly underwhelmed with the service on our last…

  • Ristorante Micomare

    Calabria

    For expansive sea and castle views dine at this bright and airy seafood specialist. Try the squeaky-fresh crudo di mare (raw seafood) antipasto, the…

  • Bar Gelateria Ercole

    Calabria

    Pizzo enjoys something of a reputation for its gelato, and, on the main square, Ercole is reckoned by many to serve the best in town. The most admired…

  • Pimm’s

    Tropea

    Set on the lip of Tropea’s stunning cliffs, Pimm’s serves up simple but excellent local seafood, as well as salads starring the town’s prized red onions…

  • Osteria del Pescatore

    Tropea

    Pesce spada (swordfish) is a speciality on this part of the coast and it rates highly on the menu at this simple seafood place tucked away in the…

  • Casa del Pane

    Matera

    If you're looking for a snack on the go, grab a slice of just-baked focaccia or a knobbly, deep-brown Matera loaf from this popular bakery on Matera's…

  • Sgagliozze

    Bari

    Check out this simple corner stall for Barese street-food sgagliozze (deep-fried polenta cubes). You may need a lie-down afterwards.