Must-see restaurants in Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria

  • Trattoria le Zie - Cucina Casareccia

    Lecce

    Where better to eat cucina casareccia (home cooking) than a place that feels like a private home, with patterned cement floor tiles, paper-strewn desk and…

  • enoteca dai tosi

    Matera

    Easily Matera's most spectacular wine bar and restaurant, enoteca dai tosi's subterranean space enlivened with shimmering green glass is a top place to…

  • Trattoria Pantagruele

    Brindisi

    Named after the Rabelaisian giant Pantagruel, this trattoria three blocks from the waterfront serves excellent fish and grilled meats. Expect fresh…

  • Antiche Mura

    Polignano a Mare

    Huddled against the eponymous 'Old Walls' of Polignano, this delightful little restaurant features a vaulted cave-like interior with lanterns and bells…

  • Il Poeta Contadino

    Alberobello

    Vegetarians will be pleased here, as vegetables step timidly out of the contorni shadow, into the primi limelight. Alongside the swordfish, shrimp and…

  • Trattoria Amatulli

    Alberobello

    The cheerily cluttered interior of this excellent trattoria is papered with photos of smiley diners, obviously put in the best mood by dishes like…

  • Osteria La Pignata

    Matera

    Pasta is highly recommended at this popular sassi osteria, perhaps cavatellini ceci e vongole (little hand-made pasta curls with chickpeas and clams) or…

  • Ristorante A Squella

    Calabria

    For a taste of traditional Calabrian cooking, modest, welcoming Ristorante a Squella makes for a great lunchtime stop. It serves reliably good dishes,…

  • Osteria al Casale

    Matera

    While al Casale's secondi are uniformly meaty, this osteria does offer more vegetarian options than most. Antipasti such as sformatino (a 'mis-shapen'…

  • La Gatta Buia

    Matera

    With a sleekly decorated bar and dining areas and a menu that goes beyond Basilicatan classics, 'The Good Cat' is another feather in the cap of Matera's…

  • Osteria Pico

    Matera

    Basilicata's rugged, flavourful produce stars in this upmarket, split-level cave restaurant in Sasso Barisano. Try local specialities you may not find…

  • Blue of You

    Calabria

    Soak up the atmosphere at this lovely little restaurant, where blue lampshades, a Blue Note soundtrack and glimpses of the blue Tyrrhenian set the mood…

  • Alle due Corti

    Lecce

    Rosalba de Carlo, a noted repository of Salento gustatory wisdom, is the presiding authority in this authentic-as-it gets Pugliese kitchen. 'The Two…

  • Pepe Nero

    Calabria

    This family-owned restaurant just off Pizzo's main square has a stylish outdoor deck, the ideal spot to enjoy local seafood like spada (swordfish), prawn…

  • Cibando

    Martina Franca

    A friendly delicatessen and cafe showcasing Slow Food ingredients from around the Valle d’Itria, Cibando is a good place to try the area's renowned smoked…

  • Paninart

    Trani

    This compact and happening spot soundtracked by classic soul music combines good-value gourmet salads and panini sandwiches with a thoughtful selection of…

  • La Locanda

    Cosenza

    Just off Cosenza's pedestrian-friendly shopping street La Locanda is a centrally-located and versatile spot that's a favourite with local families. Pasta,…

  • Dedalo

    Matera

    Dedalo's motto sensi sommersi (submerged senses) will either hint at pretension, or indicate the lengths this classy fine diner goes to to wow its…

  • Ristorante Four Seasons

    Martina Franca

    Formerly a more casual osteria, this restaurant in Martina Franca's centro storico has been relaunched with a fine dining focus and an improved wine list…

  • Baccanti

    Matera

    Baccanti is as classy as a cave can be. The design is simple glamour against the low arches of the cavern; the dishes – perhaps ash-baked potato with…

  • Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale

    Ostuni

    This compact osteria serves up great food in a setting that manages to keep it classy, despite a kitsch chandelier and muzak soundtrack competing with…

  • Gran Caffè Renzelli

    Cosenza

    This venerable cafe behind the duomo has been run by the same family since 1803 when the founder arrived from Naples and began baking gooey cakes and…

  • Osteria del Vicolo

    Calabria

    Follow signs from Mormanno’s church to this humble but much-lauded eatery. The menu stars the region’s highly prized lentils, which accompany local…

  • La Taverna del Duca

    Valle d’Itria

    In a narrow side street off Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, this well-regarded trattoria serves robust Itrian fare such as pork cheek in a primitivo reduction…

  • La Puritate

    Gallipoli

    Book ahead to ensure your table at the place for fish in this seafood-loving town. Follow the practically obligatory seafood antipasti with delicious…

  • Atenze

    Lecce

    You'll eat handsomely at the in-house restaurant of the Patria Palace Hotel, right in the heart of old Lecce. The food is Puglian, mainly elevated…

  • Il Terrazzino

    Matera

    'The Deck' marries views over Sasso Barisano with traditional Lucanian food and a 17th-century cellar carved into the rock. Adventurous gourmets might go…

  • Al Becco della Civetta

    Basilicata

    Don’t miss this authentic Lucano restaurant in Castelmezzano, which serves excellent regional cuisine based on seasonal local ingredients. It also offers…

  • La Darsena

    Trani

    Renowned for its seafood, swish La Darsena is housed in a waterfront palazzo. Outside tables overlook the port while inside, photos of old Puglia cover…

  • Terranima

    Bari

    Peep through the lace curtains into the cool interior of this rustic trattoria, where worn flagstone floors and period furnishings make you feel like you…

  • Alle Fornaci

    Matera

    'To the Ovens!' is the cry of this stylish ristorante in Matera's new town, noted in particular for its seafood. Clear perspex chairs and stiff white…

  • La Grotta nei Sassi

    Matera

    This welcoming little cave restaurant is a great bet for Materan classics and spanking fresh seafood. Try the tuna tagliata, stuffed mussels or…

  • Piccinni 28

    Bari

    Excellent service and a quiet and shaded interior garden make Piccinni 28 a good option for lunch or dinner. Pizzas feature innovative toppings, dishes…

  • Ristorante Francesca

    Matera

    This elegant cave restaurant makes atmospheric use of its rock-hewn interior as the setting for great traditional Lucanian (Basilicatan) cuisine. Local…

  • Ristorante Don Matteo

    Matera

    Delightful Basilicatan food is de rigeur at this friendly, family-run restaurant. Seasonal produce such as peas, artichokes and cimi di rape (turnip tops)…

  • Da Peppe

    Calabria

    In Rotonda, this is a winner, with wonderful local meat and seasonal woodland products such as truffles, mushrooms and even nettles (in a dish of ravioli)…

  • Ristorante Da Annibale

    Calabria

    Da Annibale offers local seafood served in a wisteria-draped outdoor area. Swordfish, tuna carpaccio, stuffed pumpkin flowers and handmade pasta dishes…

  • La Torre di Merlino

    Lecce

    This sweet courtyard restaurant is dependably one of Lecce's better eating options. There are pizzas, but why would you, when the seafood's so good? Try…

  • Le Nasse U Bais

    Reggio Calabria

    Offering a long wine list and locally caught seafood such as pesce spada (swordfish), this restaurant looks like a sophisticated version of a fisherman’s…

  • Pasticceria Schiuma

    Matera

    This old-school pasticceria, established in 1946, is all gleaming glass, polished tiles and gaudy, delectable cakes. Buy a paper bag of delights to take…