Katzrin (Qazrin), ‘capital of the Golan’, makes an excellent base for exploring the central and southern Golan and stocking up on picnic supplies. Founded in 1977, this is by far the region’s largest Israeli settlement.
The lively little commercial centre, Merkaz Eitan, is a classic 1970s complex that was spruced up considerably a few years back. Among the additions: a tile-covered sculpture that is as whimsical as it is colourful. In addition to a bank, a pharmacy and some eateries, the complex has a first-rate museum. Except for one grocery, everything closes on Shabbat.