Bouches-du-Rhône
Niolon, a tiny cluster of houses clinging to the Calanque de Niolon, offers no better dining than at this lovely auberge (inn), with its sea-view terrace…
Must-see restaurants in Bouches-du-Rhône
Marseille
This long-standing classic in a 1940s seaside hotel with Mediterranean views has plenty of atmosphere, however kitschy. Although this is one of the most…
Marseille
Only Marseillais and the cognoscenti are privy to this little chalet with a very big view, secreted in the Jardin du Pharo. Its hillside terrace, shaded…
Marseille
A classic neighbourhood bar and bistro, the Longchamp Palace teems with convivial locals, especially after work. Stained glass windows that might have…
Marseille
Scotch and spanking-fresh seafood come together in this outpost of the Auld Alliance (the long-standing friendship between Scotland and France, cemented…
Marseille
Night and day, this corner bar is a classic Le Panier hang-out whether you’re old, young, hip or in need of a hip replacement. It’s on a quiet backstreet…
Bouches-du-Rhône
This bright, breezy restaurant is a favourite for the chi-chi summer crowd, and with good reason: the food is classy and the ambience is buzzy, with…
Les Calanques
The one restaurant in the tiny, pretty calanque of Morgiou is the delightful Nautic Bar. With terraces overlooking the port, it is a dreamy spot for…
Bouches-du-Rhône
Well-stuffed fougasse (Provençal flatbread) and baguettes with a variety of tasty fillings make this well-established boulangerie (bakery) the perfect…
Marseille
This swanky restaurant has a Michelin star and knockout water-level views from an elegantly austere dining room. Many splurge on what may be Marseille’s…
Marseille
The Aixoise has given locals their daily bread, in all its forms – pain de campagne (country bread), crunchy ficelle (minibaguettes) or a classic baguette…
Aix-en-Provence
It’s all very cosy at Charlotte, where everyone knows everyone. French classics like veal escalope and grilled entrecôte steak are mainstays, and there is…
Marseille
This deceptively shabby-looking restaurant opposite Plage des Catalans has been the culinary pride and joy of the Michel family since 1946. Contrary to…
Aix-en-Provence
Smack bang in the centre of old Aix, this jolly little restaurant specialises in southwestern cuisine, which means copious amounts of duck, rabbit and…
Marseille
Peron is a premium address for seafood in Marseille, with the advantage of a stunning cliftop perch and views over the water to the Îles du Frioul. Expect…
Marseille
It doesn’t get more Gallic than the 'Dugo' – chalkboard menus, wooden floors, vintage signs, giant mirrors and whip-smart waiters. Soak up the atmosphere…
Les Calanques
This seasonal restaurant with excellent views has the best food in the Calanque de Sormiou. Reserve ahead – by phone only – which allows you to drive your…
Marseille
Perched right on the water's edge in the port of Madrague, south of Marseille, this little seafood place specialises in the day's catch à la plancha …
Marseille
A good lunch bet, this small Italian deli serves pastas, ciabattas, salads and antipasti, and sells top-class Italian goodies to take away. Good Italian…
Bouches-du-Rhône
St-Rémy's most refined patisserie is elegant for afternoon tea – accompanied by the most delicate of French fancies, bien sûr.
Bouches-du-Rhône
Excellent pizza and pasta with a Sicilian spin – but the wonderful rooftop terrace is the bit that seals the deal.
Marseille
Baking some of the best pastries near the Vieux Port, Le Pain de l'Opéra also has plenty of savoury options.
Marseille
The south-facing terrace of this relaxed 'corner bistro' is usually thronged in good weather. But the locals aren’t here for the sun so much as expertly…
Aix-en-Provence
The peasant flavours of Corsica are given free rein at this backstreet bistro – from big platters of Corsican charcuterie to a wine list with some of the…
Marseille
The food is decent all-purpose French (entrecôte, foie gras, boeuf tartare, crème brulée, burgers etc) but what really appeals about this club-like…
Bouches-du-Rhône
Inside an old fisherman’s house with pale-grey shutters and a leafy veranda, Le Miroir cooks up a bounty of seafood: poutargue (pressed grey mullet roe),…
Pays d’Aix
The true attraction of this wayfarers' inn, which is a little close to the D65 to be truly restful, is the stunning, triple-tiered Aqueduc de Roquefavour,…
Marseille
Part bookshop, part restaurant, this opulent former arms warehouse overlooks a vast public square and makes a sophisticated setting for a meal, or just…
Aix-en-Provence
A handy refuelling station when exploring Vieil Aix, this outlet of St-Tropez’s swish baker sells sugar-encrusted tarte Tropézienne, plus sandwiches and…
Bouches-du-Rhône
St-Rémy's no-frills, casual hang-out for locals abuts the place de la République car park but is always packed, serving fresh local dishes, wine and…
Marseille
You can still buy the fresh stuff here at the Vieux Port, among the vestiges of what would once have been a thriving quayside fish market.
Marseille
This lively market sells a good range of fresh produce and is the place for picnic supplies. On Monday there are also flowers.
