Must-see restaurants in Central Asia

  • As Kazan

    Bishkek

    The full range of Central Asian favourites is on offer here but the real standout is the selection of 20 different varieties of laghman, including several…

  • Fakir

    Almaty

    Cheerful Uzbek cheapie near the Green Market, with heaped helpings of manty (steamed dumplings), plov (pilaf), noodle dishes and chorba (stew). Popular…

  • Cafe Urartu

    Kazakhstan

    The succulent grilled meats, boat-shaped manty (steamed dumplings), dolma (stuffed peppers), hearty soups and other Armenian dishes have won this…

  • Besh Chinor

    Samarkand

    This low-key traditional place is a great spot for plov (pilaf), chicken kebab or manty (steamed dumplings). There's beer on tap, a fridge full of cold…

  • Argo

    Nukus

    This self-service restaurant isn't exactly haute cuisine but it's cheap and easy, with good salads, pleasant outdoor seating and no pesky Cyrillic menus…

  • Bakkara

    Kazakhstan

    Some of the best shashlyk in town – tender lamb, pork or sturgeon – are grilled up at this place with no sign but recognisable by the trees lining its…

  • Azizbek

    Uzbekistan

    This friendly place is worth the detour from the centre of town; its staff are charmingly friendly, there's beer on tap and the menu of grilled meat and…

  • Divan

    Nur-Sultan (Astana)

    The menu at this friendly Turkish eatery has a series of lamb/chicken/beef kebabs and shashlyk, as well as pide (Turkish pizza), steak and hearty soups…

  • Kheivak Restaurant

    Khiva

    The Malika Kheivak hotel has a pleasant sun-dappled courtyard covered with traditional tapchan and tables. It's a very handy spot for lunch in the Ichon…

  • Chashmai Mirob

    Bukhara

    It’s known more for its fabulous view of the Mir-i-Arab and Kalon Mosque than for its home-cooked food, but you can still eat passably here, though you…

  • La Petite Maison

    Bishkek

    A little bit boulangerie, patisserie, and cafe, the menu here is limited but authentic French flavours and quality sweets and baked goods on a screened…

  • Asia Kafe

    Kazakhstan

    In front of the market, this popular establishment with swing-like seats suspended from the ceiling is a solid choice if you're looking for some…

  • U Rybaka

    Issyk-Köl Oblast

    As one might expect from a place called 'the fisherman', seafood is the highlight of the menu as this local favourite. Both the ground floor tables and…

  • Marco Polo

    Dushanbe

    This fun little venue, designed as an odd combination of stalactite-filled cavern with covered tables and cloth serviettes, provides a cool spot on a hot…

  • Cinara's

    Chimgan & Ugam-Chatkal National Park

    This lovely restaurant, just before Charvak village, is a popular stop en route to Chimgan. You can relax on tea-beds surrounded by ancient chinor (plane)…

  • Sunduk

    Tashkent

    The comfort food at this diminutive eatery, kitted out like a French country kitchen, is as perfect as the handwriting on the menus – on homemade paper,…

  • Izum

    Dushanbe

    Local fabrics and piled cushions lend an exotic aura to this trend-setting restaurant, with its intimate booths and hubble-bubble bar. The tablet menus…

  • Barashek

    Issyk-Köl Oblast

    The Cholpon-Ata branch of this popular Bishkek restaurant serves up reliable local dishes and hit-or-miss European favourites. It's also one of the few in…

  • Eagilik Books & Coffee

    Nur-Sultan (Astana)

    The relaxed cafe at this friendly English bookshop, a bit of an expat hang-out, does a very welcome range of homemade quiches, pies, cheesecakes and…

  • Mamina Dacha

    Bishkek

    European classics and Caucasian favourites, with a special focus on the cuisine of Azerbaijan, make this a solid choice in the centre of Bishkek. The…

  • Greenwich Pub

    Bishkek

    Genuinely good Georgian food - including some of the best khinkali (Georgian dumplings) in town - complements a fairly standard sports bar theme, but the…

  • Reina Kench

    Karakol

    Slightly classier than the competition – the modern styling complement an English menu with a wide range of usually reliable options. Sadly the summer…

  • Adel Hotpot

    Bishkek

    Authentic Chinese hotpot, down to the yin-yang style split pots filled with fiery red broth. Order the fatty lamb meat for a Kyrgyz touch, or stick with…

  • Ribeye Art & Grill

    Kazakhstan

    The vast triangular bar in the centre of this hangar-like space serves sangrias and imaginative cocktails, but the main draw here is the meat. Ribeyes,…

  • Lepota Cafe

    Kyrgyzstan

    Beside the highway in the northernmost settlement before the climb towards Bishkek, this 2nd-floor cafe prepares surprisingly good local dishes and has a…

  • Tokhir-Zukhra Chaikhana

    Khiva

    The best place for a chaikhana-style meal of freshly grilled kebabs and beer on tap is this laid-back spot just northwest of the Ichan Qala. The giant…

  • Twelve Fireplaces Tavern

    Kyrgyzstan

    Open-air seating over the Alamedin river and gorgeous mountain views make this a favoured escape from Bishkek, about half an hour south of town. The small…

  • Rohatbahsh Chaikhana

    Fergana Valley

    This popular canteen-style chaikhana, also known as Jahon Chaikhana, tends to close earlier than advertised, but during daylight hours it’s the best…

  • Bolo Hauz Chaikhana

    Bukhara

    This large chaikhana in the park opposite the Ark is an ideal place for a cheap and simple meal of Uzbek salads, soups, plov (pilaf) or noodles. There's…

  • NY Pizza

    Bishkek

    We won't go quite so far as to say it's as good as the New York namesake, but it's certainly tasty pizza. They'll even deliver it to your hotel after a…

  • Izyum

    Bishkek

    A surprisingly wide range of excellent-value Central Asian classics are available 'round the clock at this joint just off the main square. Things get…

  • Teplitsa

    Kazakhstan

    Teplitsa (Greenhouse) is a stylish update on the old stolovaya (cafeteria) concept. There’s plenty of freshly prepared food to choose from, and it’s hard…

  • Coffeedelia

    Almaty

    This fashionable coffee house with a relaxed atmosphere, fabulous cakes and pastries and good coffees, teas, juices and breakfasts is an evergreen chart…

  • Khutorok

    Kazakhstan

    Views of the Chagan River complement a hearty menu of Ukrainian dishes - large bowls of borsch, vareniki (dumplings) stuffed with cherries, draniki …

  • Nar

    Bishkek

    Set amidst Turkish rugs and Azeri tunes, this little Azerbaijani restaurant off Bishkek’s main square is something of an underrated gem, particularly for…

  • Shalimar Restaurant

    Tashkent

    When the urge for a vegetable jalfrezi or chicken tikka masala becomes unbearable, head to this Pakistan-run place. Everything is authentic, from the nan…

  • Green Pub

    Issyk-Köl Oblast

    With more atmosphere than most and open year-round, this low-lit, green-decor pub-restaurant with heavy wooden tables and a partially covered summer…

  • La Parilla

    Bishkek

    There may be other restaurants that claim to serve Tex-Mex in Bishkek, but none do it as deliciously as here. Quesadillas, burritos, and even a decent…

  • Pivovaroff

    Kazakhstan

    Set in a stone-walled basement not unlike a castle cellar, with high-back wooden booths, Pivovaroff is a good choice for dining on salads and grills …

  • Fusion

    Kazakhstan

    Fusion is exactly that: a melange of sushi, pan-Asian noodle dishes, salads, shashlyk and vaguely international meat and fish dishes. It's a bit of a…