Mayrhofen is ever so traditional in summer, with its alpine dairies, trails twisting high into the mountains and stein-swinging Volksmusik pouring out of every Gasthof. But it dances to a different tune in winter. The skiing at Ahorn and Penken is some of the country’s finest, a double whammy of cruising and kamikaze in the shadow of the glaciated Zillertal range, and the après-ski is the hottest this side of the Tyrolean Alps.
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