Welcome to Chernihiv
Modestly receding into provincial obscurity for the past millennium, Chernihiv, Ukraine's most northerly city, was once a Kyivan Rus heavyweight frequented by 11th-century royalty. The residue of those glory days is a tight cluster of churches on a green bluff in the city's historical core, now a Unesco-listed site and one of the highlights of Polissya. Otherwise this northern outpost has a slow provincial charm, the inert Desna River seemingly having given up on ever meeting the Dnipro, the population still deeming foreigners worthy of a stare on the dusty streets. The town makes for an easy day trip from the capital, or book ahead for a night out in the sticks and some deeper exploration of this seldom-visited corner of rural Ukraine.